How to get a hammered look?

Mark Barone

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
I don’t have a forge or an anvil. i have kiln. Am I able to get a hammered look on a cleaver I am making. How long can I hammer a piece of steel beore it cools down too much?
 
Well you do not have to heat it up as long as it has been annealed. Just leave it cold and use a ball peen to hammer mark it up all you wish. Now I am not talking coming from downtown with your blows keep them just enough to mark the steel well. Anything can be an anvil of sorts. A big hard surface is all that is needed to mark it up.
 
Chris Railey said:
Well you do not have to heat it up as long as it has been annealed. Just leave it cold and use a ball peen to hammer mark it up all you wish. Now I am not talking coming from downtown with your blows keep them just enough to mark the steel well. Anything can be an anvil of sorts. A big hard surface is all that is needed to mark it up.
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Thanks Chris, another question. The hammer I have right now is an old one. Sledge on one side, ball on the other. The ball side is about the size of a ping pong ball. Good? I’ll buy another one if I have too. I can test also on scrap.
 
I would test on scrap and see if you like the look. Honestly I have not used a peen that large to add hammer marks, it may look good. I normally use a small maybe 16 oz. ball peen.
 
I think you need a smaller peen hammer. Used to be before things got crazy you could browse the flea markets and pick up good deals on shop tools.
 
Chris Railey said:
Well you do not have to heat it up as long as it has been annealed.
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While this is true, heat will help make it easier. Any time you are beating on cold steel hard enough to deform it you are risking stress fractures, and depending on the steel may or may not be something to worry about.
 
Any time you are beating on cold steel hard enough to deform it you are risking stress fractures
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This is going to hold true for most steels that are usable for blades..... it's called "work hardening" The more you hit it, the more it will work harden, and the more likely fractures. It would be painfully slow, but you could always heat it in the kiln, hammer, repeat.

Personally, I would not "beat" on cold steel. Isn't there an old Blacksmith's saying about going to "H" "E" double hockey sticks for beating on cold iron/steel? :)

That being said, polishing the hammer face or peen is a must.
 
It does not take a hard strike at all to mark it up. Yeah if you are putting deep dents in it that is too hard. Come to think of it, most of the time I have added hammer marks it has been at black heat not dead cold. Do you have a torch, that would be easier.
 
I would bet it will warp like nothing ever before warped if you hit it cold, flatten it back out cold, then HT it.
 
Mark I apologize I went into blacksmith mode there for a minute. It is quite common in blacksmithing now-a-days to hammer mark up your work and because we deal with mainly mild steel it is done cold or at black heat sometimes. Although I do not think light blows will crack up a properly annealed piece of steel I forgot about work hardening which may have an impact. Again, not an issue with mild steel. Do you have a torch? If not Ed may have the best solution. Heat it to forging color remove, hammer mark lightly till near black heat and repeat. No hard hits after the red glow ends. When you are done make sure it is still straight. Sorry again. It is funny though that hammer marks in the old days was the sign of poor quality, sloppy work. Now it is desired. Go figure.
 
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I’ve had several requests for hammer marks left on or hammered in. Some folks like the look others don’t. I guess it all depends on the rest of the design and materials that make it or break it.
 
Chris Railey said:
Mark I apologize I went into blacksmith mode there for a minute. It is quite common in blacksmithing now-a-days to hammer mark up your work and because we deal with mainly mild steel it is done cold or at black heat sometimes. Although I do not think light blows will crack up a properly annealed piece of steel I forgot about work hardening which may have an impact. Again, not an issue with mild steel. Do you have a torch? If not Ed may have the best solution. Heat it to forging color remove, hammer mark lightly till near black heat and repeat. No hard hits after the red glow ends. When you are done make sure it is still straight. Sorry again. It is funny though that hammer marks in the old days was the sign of poor quality, sloppy work. Now it is desired. Go figure.
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I do have a propane torch. i didnt honk of that. I will also get a smaller hammer. Now just need to find a flat surface . I do have a little flat surface on my bench vice. That might do. Thanks again.
 
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