how to deal with spine(profile) waving or gouges

SHOKR

SHOKR

Well-Known Member
I dont know exactly whats its called

But it happens when any part or the profile is ground parallel to a wheel (i am guessing this happens due to the welded part)

Any idea how prevent or deal with that? Aside from the obvious hand sanding of course

If it just hand sanding, at which grit do you start?

Thanks

update:
adding example of one the areas i am talking about
i tried taking several photos, non show them so well, but i meant parts like the belly of tang, its top and the spine of the blade
the part of the reflection at the top is actually due to a 'dent', the ones i am asking about
20130308_015158.jpg
 
Last edited:
If you are talking about the scratches in the top of the riccasso I have found that they are usually caused by not being flat on the platen. Make sure the last few passes are flat.

I always start hand sanding at 150 grit.
 
I guess I dont really understand the question Ahmad. If you could post a picture or give a few more details of how this happens it would help.
 
Thanks laurence

I dont think its the wheel, i THINK it happens because of the bulky weld of belts

The X are the 'semi hard backed' right?
 
I know what you are talking about and that is why I now use the spindal sander for this type of sanding. But if you do not have one what you want ot do is simly aply less pressure when sanding these areas. it takes a little more time but you dont have the demples and gouges form the belt weld.
 
I know what you mean. :) DO you use a metal contact wheel or rubber? Rubber would make the belt joint less of a problem. Move faster when grinding so you're not sat in one spot too long, grinding a dip.

Or hand sanding. :D
 
I use a diamond file to remove the abrasive over the belt splice. I also focus on using constant pressure and speed when grinding with small wheels. I still handsand on occasion to get things where I want them.
 
Last edited:
SHOKR said:
Thanks laurence

I dont think its the wheel, i THINK it happens because of the bulky weld of belts

The X are the 'semi hard backed' right?
Click to expand...

X are really the hardest backed usually available.

Get some of the thinner J-weight belts in a non-directional belt. The are the ones that are woven together like fingers instead of the angle spliced directional belts. 120grit or finer. or you can get them out by hand with Sand paper and good ole elbow grease.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Laurence you give this country too much credit ;)

Most of the belts i find were actually large sheets cut to size and welded locally

I sometimes sand the weld, mostly on the overlapping ones

I think the problem mainly arise when using the flexible belts.

I have 40g in the hardest backing (looks brown) and the rest are all really flexible, which im not so happy about, because now grinding gets harder starting from 80 or 60 instead of 120 and up (the inflexibility of belts greatly decreases my chances of mistakes
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top