Help needed in cutting up an elk rack

Dennis Morland

KNIFE MAKER
I was the lucky recipient of an elk rack. A friend of mine dropped a whole rack off at my home. It came out of a bar that was closed. In fact, his friend found it in the trash can behind the bar.

Not the biggest rack but it is fairly nice condition. Lots and lots of deep veining on the rack. Prior to death, the elk had broken off the top of the rack on one side.

I want to cut it up and make tapers, rolls, or scales. I have never done this with an elk rack. I really have no idea how to accomplish this and I do not want to screw it up.

Any advice from any one that has done this will be greatly appreciated.

DeMo
 
I've done it a few times so here is just one way to consider doing it.

Decide if you want to cut off the crown or not. If you are cutting it off for a lanyard or something else, just use a typical wood hand saw for a straight cut and saw it off to your desired thickness. If not, most antler handles are 5" in length so you start at the crown end and cut your way to the tips 5" at a time. Normally where the antlers branch off, the intersection is too big or too oddly shaped for a handle so that gets cut around as waste. Also, the tips are normally too small for a knife handle so they get some other use you think up or thrown. We drill out the end and glue in a ferro rod as a primitive looking fire starter flint. There is an uncomfortable amount of waste if you are determined to get as many handles out it as you can. You are lucky to get 50% for knife handles from Elk.

Elk antler can have thin "walls" since the pith channel is so large in places. If you use a thinner wall section for a handle, scrape out all the pith and when you glue up a knife to it, make sure it is hollow is completely filled with epoxy for strength.

If you want to darken it, soak it potassium permanganate which is used for hard water conditioner treatment. Home centers and Sears sells it in the water conditioner supplies area. Potassium Permanganate is fairly caustic and an oxidizer and you want to be careful with it. No kidding. Wear glove, eye protection, do it outside, etc. It's dangerous if you don't treat it with respect but on the other hand so is gasoline or pool chemicals. It's used for water treatment so it can go down the drain when you are done. Just flush with lots of water after.

To darken, make a weak solution (what ever that is say a few ounces (powder or liquid) to a gallon of water - increase if the treatment is taking too long), drop in the antler, check on it every 15 minutes or so. It will be purple when you put it in but the potassium permanganate is oxidizing and kind of burning the antler as it soaks so it keeps getting a darker color until it almost turns black and starts to crumble apart. I know this because I've done it -- more than once, until I figured I better pay attention to it. All imported Stag antler was originally white looking, just like typical Elk or Moose antler. In order to export the product, it is soaked in potassium permanganate as a method of pest control to insure no bad bugs or other voodoo gets imported to the US.

When it gets a reddish dark brown, pull it out, wash it off. Let is dry. It's easy to go too far and end up with black, damaged antler. You might pull it out at a lighter color than you might like, let it dry and check the color. If it's too light, you can just repeat the process.

If it came out of a bar as a mount, the antler is probably hand painted to darken it. You can leave it, sand the paint off off or just let the potassium juice take it off. You will want to test one piece first.

Hope that helps.
 
ok a bit more on this...

after the antler is dried, consider giving it nice buffing. It really dresses the material up.

We all take turns buffing stag at the supply house. I try to avoid it but find myself polishing some every other week. It's enjoyable to see a nice piece of handle material emerge from a dark brown ugly lump.

We have just moved over to bobbing compound buffing compound to buff antler. It's aggressive but really gets the job done quickly. We have a hard sisal wheel on the buffer sandwiched to a 1" sewn cotton flannel wheel. They are directly next to each other so we can use the sisal side of the wheel to aggressively remove excess dye/stain/whatever to give it highlights. We want white highlights to show. The sisal wheel helps get into the grooves a bit. You will not get all the grooves shiny but you can clean them up a little. When we buff stag, we want a deep dark red to brown color so we use the hard side of the wheel to remove the real dark stuff to get the color to lighten a bit. Then we switch to the cotton side of the wheel and buff it a high shine. If we have some real dark pieces of stag, we hit it on the slack belt sander with a dull 240 to knock off sharp edges and give it more highlights. Then we buff.

You can also use white or pink compounds for buffing antler, depending on the texture. Avoid green or black compounds.
 
Back in time, well several years back, as a matter of fact, I a few moose racks. My method for the colouring was the same as Tracy wrote. As to the cutting, since there was always many free racks available, I would cut out pieces as I believed to be the best for use. That polishing and highlighting thing Tracy does, I never was smart enough to do.
Frank
 
Regarding the waste etc with the points BossDog spoke of... a couple more things you can do with the points depending on what you make... you can use some fairly small points for making patch knives, as well as stiff piece of wireor a small needle file in the end of one can make a nice nipple prick/cleaning tool for primitive black powder shooters... as well as flint nappers are often shopping for antler point to nap with...at least in my area.... just a couple ideas to maybe help reduce waste
 
The ones that are too small for anything, if you go to the local pet store you will see what they do with those, just make sure dog is a chewer and not a swallower. I think they are good as chews but some dogs will swallow them whole!! That can be bad ju ju as then they can't pass them. Not recommending them because I have never personally tried them with my dog but I see them all the time at Pet Smart! I am not sure what they do with them but they are nice and clean. I have even bought some from the pet store when I was in a real jamb for some Elk antler!
 
Bossdog and others:

Thank you for the help. I had some time and got the elk rack cut up. I did the best I could with what I had given to me.

The tines will make some nice hidden tang knives. Hopefully, the main beam will get some nice scales made from it.

If anyone is interested in cutting the main beam into scales for a cut of the bounty - send me a pm.

Thanks again.

DeMo

Tines
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Main Beam
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