heel cap for hidden tang.

Smallshop

Smallshop

KNIFE MAKER
So I am pulling the handle, guard, and blade together with an 8-32 screw and epoxy(actually overkill if you look at screw forces...a 4-40 would be fine...)

After assembly/epoxy I needed to cap the heel of the knife and wanted something to sit proud as it is all museum fit. So I don't want one area to be ground flush and not match the guard/handle fit. The fluted area will sit just above the wood and the wood will have a small radius at the meet-up with the bronze.

This little part will drop into a pocket that has some under cuts for epoxy. The part itself has a flange jam screwed on to trap epoxy. So, should be a solid glue up in a low impact area.

The look on the Short Bowie I am shooting for is "old world elegant".

This pesky lil bugger took a week of trial and error...but I'm liking it now.
cap2.jpgcap1.jpg
 
You ever had a friend that has a super beautiful girlfriend who is so high maintenance you don't want to hang with him anymore...?

Aluminum Bronze is that girl.

I, unfortunately, am the infatuated friend......I love this stuff....not sure I should be involved though...LOL!!
 
but you wasted your time getting the scratches out. custom shops leave that stuff in. make sure the scratches go in random directions
 
Wilson....i was restraining myself over there...but now you are pushing every button! LOL!! Pretty sure we (total losers) were all trying to be polite....
 

Anyone tried this stuff? John D....do you have recommendations for any type of bronze? This will be more "coppery" looking from what I can search...​

​

Properties of 385 Architectural Bronze​

385 architectural bronze demonstrates a variety of characteristics that make it suitable for use in industrial applications. For example, the material is affordable and exhibits long-term durability in non-marine environments due to its excellent corrosion resistance.

Additionally, C385 lends itself to a wide range of fabrication processes, including hot forming, pressing, bending, brazing, soldering, butt welding, and machining (rating of 90). It also demonstrates suitability for additional finishing processes, such as annealing and polishing, but not for cold forming or non-butt welding processes (e.g., such as spot, seam, arc, or oxyacetylene welding).

When hot working this material, it is recommended that fabricators perform forming operations at temperatures ranging from 1150–1350° F. Annealing operations—which increase ductility, malleability, and formability and reduce material hardness—should occur at 800–1100° F
 
I'd look at commercial bronze or bearing bronze. I can't immediately recall the exact alloy number but mcmaster carr has a good selection with properties and elemental breakdowns of each alloy.

The stuff I use machines easily and looks very similar to aluminum bronze and nothing like brass.
 
Gonna try some architectural Bronze...easy to machine and good corrosion resistance....McMasters to the rescue...
 
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