heat treating W2 and 52100

S

samuraistuart

Well-Known Member
Today I have to get a couple blades done. Both are almost identical 4" utility/hunters. One in 52100 and the other is W2. Both came from Aldo, bar stock, spheroidized, stock removal only. My heat treat for both steels is pretty much the same. Is that OK, or am I missing something? My thought is most of the lower alloy tool steels can be treated almost identical.

In the past, I have done normalizing before grinding, and then done a spher anneal, grind, then stress relieve, then harden. This go around is going to be more simple. They are ground now and will be normalized, cycled, and hardened.

Both will get 1650F for a few minutes
Both will get the step down procedure, 1550F, 1425F
Right to hardening...both getting a good soak at 1475F
The W2 will get P50, the 52100 130F canola
Both get initial 375F tempers and walked up if needed, probably needed up to 400F.

Does this procedure look good for both steels? Thanks for the input!
 
I do both the steels basically the same, but use 15f lower for the W2 (1460f vs 1475) as I typically choose W2 for differential hardening, and 52100 for deep hardening. I mistakenly left the W2 in the oven between cycles previously, which cools too slowly for a hypereuctoid and can result in undesirable structure and carbide condition. I will change that in future, and will air cool the W2 to magnetic between heat cycles. O1 follows the same heat treatment if you are unsure of its condition from the mill too.
 
also i bet that 52100 will still benefit from a longer soak at 1475F than w2 given equal previous conditions.
 
I was thinking the EXACT same thing yesterday when doing these blades, Stezann. But, alas, they both got the same heat treat and temper. Only difference was the quench medium. 100F P50 vs 130F canola. I would LOVE an RC tester, but don't have access to one. So my file test showed they hardened well. I used a brand new Simmonds fine cut file, and the hard edge would simply make fun of my file. Even with pressure, I could not make the file cut into the hardened steel. So it has to be somewhat above 63 for sure. Both of them were just as hard as glass. I love that part....trying to cut into an edge with a file after hardening!
 
We use close to the same heat treat..I use about 1460° for the W2(Ive had great luck with 1475° as well) with a 3-4 minute soak..We use Kevin Cashens heat treat for 52100 and could not be happier with it..Id say you will have to go close to 450° tempers to get around 60rc if that's what your looking for or close anyway..
 
Thanks Kentucky. You may be right. Due to past experience with Kevin's recommendations on how to handle Aldo's 52100, 400F may not be enough to drop it down to 60. But edges aren't chipping....so I'm happy!!! I am always impressed how hard steel is when hardened. It is like magic to me, and a spell is cast every time I heat treat!!!!!
 
Stuart,
throw caution to the wind and try tempering the 52100 at 325F. should give Rc64 or so. when paired with thin stock and a flat grind the only thing that will cut better is a laser.
I know this is sacrilegious but try a sample of 52100 with this recipe
make 3 or 4 identical knives. HT 3 of them the way you usually do. for the fourth:
after all forging and grinding is done, heat to 1650F, hold for several minutes, cool to black
heat to 1475F/800C, soak for 8-10 minutes once temperature is stable.
quench in 120F oil. wipe and temper at 300F for 30min.
cold water quench, scrub clean
temper at 325F for 1 hour
cold water quench
temper (325F for Rc64 375F for Rc62) for 1 hour
take this sample blade and have someone else mix in it with other finished blades
find the difference
always remember Mr. Landes suggestions for HT, Keep It Simple.
 
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