Heat Treat Oven Project

I found the attached wiring diagram on another forum and I will probably do something similar.

So far this is my build list. I still have some odds and ends to add to the list such as fuse holder, terminal strip, alarm buzzer, etc. I have both controllers I am considering on the list. Still havn't made up my mind as to which one.

VendorDescriptionModelqtypricetotal
Auber Instrumentspid controllerSYL-2352P1$78.95$78.95
Auber Instrumentsheat sinkHS252$9.65$19.30
Auber InstrumentsT/CTC-K-KLN1$31.30$31.30
Auber InstrumentsSSR 25 ampMGR-1D48252$15.00$30.00
Auber InstrumentsT/C plugTCCON31$6.39$6.39
Auber Instrumentsenclosure box 60 amp heat sinkB2520151$80.00$80.00
Automation directpid controllerSL4848-VR1$100.00$100.00
Automation directUSB TO RS-485 PC ADAPTERUSB-485M1$51.00$51.00

View attachment Heat Treat Oven wiring diagram(1).pdf

Right now I'm still in the planning stage and trying to save up money to buy the components. The fuel pump went out on my son's car yesterday and I'm helping him out with that, so that pushed my project to the back burner for now. Hopefully sometime in the near future I'll be able to buy the materials and complete the project. I'll post updates once I get the components.
 
So why are you getting 2 pid controllers? my oven is only 110v so I think I will just need one and one SSR, but I think I will get 2 T/C's so I can make sure if one goes bad I will know.
 
That's strange... I googled that second number you have listed (SL4848-VR) and looked for it on their site but can't find it anywhere... where can you get it from? I am curious to the differences between the two.
 
AAGGGHH! SO AWESOME! I am totally building this! Before I go crazy though, let me clarify some stuff, if you don't mind...

The two SSR's are there because you are running 220vac, yeah? I have 220 in my shop now, and just want to make sure.
The door switch kills the power when the door is open so you don't defibrilize yourself trying to get a knife in and out. I probably will still yell, "CLEAR!" everytime I reach in, just so my wife knows to come check on me every so often...
The high temp wire wont melt when contacted to the elements...
The heat led has me stumped... it only comes on when the elements are hot, or when power is on, because there is already a power led....Or, does the toggle switch actually switch on the elements allowing them to begin heating?
What amperage is the fuse from the #10 lead on the PID?

I am so jacked right now... I can't wait to get this stuff up and running..

Thanks so much for this post!:biggrin:
 
funkyjedi - I'll answer what I can ,but I'm not an electrican and I found the diagram on another forumn. I still have not been able to afford the parts to do the controller build yet, but it's still on the list.

The two SSR's are there because you are running 220vac, yeah? I have 220 in my shop now, and just want to make sure.
The door switch kills the power when the door is open so you don't defibrilize yourself trying to get a knife in and out. Correct

The heat led has me stumped... it only comes on when the elements are hot, or when power is on, because there is already a power led.... From looking at the diagram. The power led comes on when the unit is plugged in and the dpst switch is on.

The heat led comes on when the controller sends the signal to the SSR to heat.

Or, does the toggle switch actually switch on the elements allowing them to begin heating? I'm not sure why the person who made the diagram added the toggle switch between the door switch and #7, seems redundant.


What amperage is the fuse from the #10 lead on the PID? Not sure but it looks like it is there to protect the controller. Since the controller appears to be 220vac you would think both legs should be fused. As to the amp it would depend on the rating of the controller, probably not very high 1 or 2 amps.

The PDF of the diagram print we are referring to is in post #21 in this thread. If there are any electricians out there who would like to review it an offer their opinion it would be appreciated.
 
Nice. Thanks for the quick reply... I will be ordering parts this week. I have a local supply of refractory brick, and I can get angle locally too. This thing should be up as soon as I can get the stuff in the mail. Spring break is next week, which means Ill have plenty of shop time to dink around. I am SO excited...
 
I'm not sure why the person who made the diagram added the toggle switch between the door switch and #7, seems redundant.
Click to expand...

That switch is there to allow power to PID while fooling around with set point, getting to where you want it without the PID calling for heat to oven. Once everything is where you want it, and you're ready for oven to heat, then turn that toggle switch to ON position to allow heating of oven by PID.

Ken H>
 
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