Handle pins

Gliden07

Gliden07

Well-Known Member
What do you guys use for handle pins?? I was buying stuff at the hobby stores and it was very expensive! I started to go to my local Welding supply shop and buying 1/8" welding rod in both SS and Brass. 5 3' pcs for about the cost of 3 12" pcs!!
 
I use 1/4" pin stock and tubes in brass, stainless, and nickel silver. I buy from online metals suppliers. Obviously the mosaics I use come from knife supply houses.
 
When I first started making knives I was fortunate to purchase a deceased maker's old stock. He had tons of brass pins and tubes. All sizes and shapes.

As my pile has dwindled, I find myself buying bits and pieces from a Local ACE Hardware store. Not cheap, but cheaper than Hobby Lobby. Also, have the sizes that I am looking for 1/32, 1/16. 1/8. 1/4, 3/16. Plus they carry copper, brass, aluminum, all kinds of stuff. And in all kinds of shapes, oval, rounds, triangles, squares, etc. This lets me be creative when making mosaic pins.
 
Lately I've been using 3/32 nickel silver pins for my hidden tangs and corby or loveless style fasteners of various sizes for full tangs. I've just been adding it to my order when I am purchasing other items from the knife supply places.
 
I use bronze welding rod, and 304 stainless for the few times that I've used something other than mosaic pins. I work at a steel service center so I can get the 304 and bronze for next to nothing.
 
Just a note on getting brass from recycling places if you are going to do brass bolsters with brass pins. There are slight differences in the finished or polished colour of the brass obtained from different manufacturers.
For that reason I get my pinstock and bar stock from the same supply house.
I can get 3 metres (10 ft) of 1/8 in brass rod for NZ$3 although the 1/2 x 1/4 barstock is $25 a metre (39 in) A NZ$ is about 72 US cents
 
I use mostly Nickel Silver or 416 pins in 3/32" and 1/16". Personally, I think it's important to think about the type of pins you use for handles. Often times when using harder/tougher pins such as SS or alloy pins, they will not grind/finish down at the same rate as the surrounding handle material.... and depending on the density of the handle material, this can happen with any pin material...... you must pay very close attention when grinding or hand sanding pins and around them......if you don't you will often get a "high pin", surrounded by "lows" in the handle material.

On the grinder keeping the pin at the same height as that handle material calls for VERY LIGHT pressure and patience....especially on finer grit belts. Try to ONLY grind the pin head. When it comes to hand sanding/finishing, use a hard sanding stick, and again, concentrate on the pin head(s). Once the pins are level with the handle material, and there are no "lumps or bumps", lightly finish things out with your final grit.
 
I've made a decision to move away from hard metal pins and to begin using the softer metal.
Can anyone think of a reason to use stainless pins rather than the softer brass and nickel material?
 
i have also used 1/4" oak dowels for handle pins, they have worked well. i may get some black walnut dowels for contrast with a lighter color scale.
 
opaul said:
I've made a decision to move away from hard metal pins and to begin using the softer metal.
Can anyone think of a reason to use stainless pins rather than the softer brass and nickel material?
Click to expand...

I would think cost also?
 
Like Ed, all I use are nickel silver pins. and after finishing the handle I usually go back with a flat jewelers file to make sure there all flush, then re-sand everything starting with 320 or 400 grit paper, and then procede to finish. that seems to keep everything flush.
The one thing that absolutely drives me crazy are seeing proud pins.
 
bladegrinder said:
Like Ed, all I use are nickel silver pins. and after finishing the handle I usually go back with a flat jewelers file to make sure there all flush, then re-sand everything starting with 320 or 400 grit paper, and then procede to finish. that seems to keep everything flush.
The one thing that absolutely drives me crazy are seeing proud pins.
Click to expand...

Where do you get your nickel pins?
 
Sheffield knifemakers supply, Orange city Fl.
their kind of old school with no website but their good people to deal with.
I've been buying from them for years.
 
bladegrinder said:
Sheffield knifemakers supply, Orange city Fl.
their kind of old school with no website but their good people to deal with.
I've been buying from them for years.
Click to expand...

Wow, that is old school. I'm guessing they would take phone orders?
 
Yea, that's how I order. I've known the owner Mike for years. their good people.
they do have a printed catalog and I know Mikes daughter just recently got involved in the business so I would hope a website is in the works.
 
opaul said:
I've made a decision to move away from hard metal pins and to begin using the softer metal.
Can anyone think of a reason to use stainless pins rather than the softer brass and nickel material?
Click to expand...
So...we have to ask what a pin does. Unless it's a corby/chicago style binding screw...the pin is merely protecting the scale from a shear load....like dropping it on a hard surface and hitting the corner of the handle. For that type of impact I think about anything is doing a decent job. brass, wood, micarta, plastic, carbon fiber. And....probably the more pins the merrier...specially if they're small. I think the limiting issue would be to not use a pin material softer than the handle...Jmo.
 
I interlock my handles through my blade frame...I get glue area and shear strength like crazy. The MAIN reason I do pins is to not have folks think my handles are weaker than "pinned"...I would put interlocked handles up against ANY pinned handles on a flat glue surface.

that said...pins are an aesthetic feature that can ADD to the beauty of the knife....lanyard holes too.

If you did some sample glues on wood and steel...and tried to whack them loose...you would gain or lose the necessary confidence real quick. I have never tested that...I have tested mine. if you can get your glue surface to have serious rise and fall...you can do pretty much as you wish with pins etc...

The "hardness" of epoxy may be it's Achilles heel...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top