Handle inlay, pantograph, possibly collaborative work?

Frank Hunter

Frank Hunter

Well-Known Member
I have a custom job coming up with something new. The client wants a handle inlay different from the regular shield that I typically install through the handle scales then etch for monogramming or other embellishment - he's wanting the lettering of a brand, OO/, inletted into the scales with roughly 1/2" characters in bright nickel silver lettering. This will be on one side of the wood handle, which he still needs to pick out, with possibly other lettering down the other side. I am assuming for something of this detail I'm going to need a pantograph mill? The shields I use are time consuming but doable as they're typically oval and I spend a great deal of time hand fitting them. I spoke with the client and he's up for a collaborative project on this between myself and another knifemaker if necessary. Thank you in advance.
 
Frank Hunter said:
I have a custom job coming up with something new. The client wants a handle inlay different from the regular shield that I typically install through the handle scales then etch for monogramming or other embellishment - he's wanting the lettering of a brand, OO/, inletted into the scales with roughly 1/2" characters in bright nickel silver lettering. This will be on one side of the wood handle, which he still needs to pick out, with possibly other lettering down the other side. I am assuming for something of this detail I'm going to need a pantograph mill? The shields I use are time consuming but doable as they're typically oval and I spend a great deal of time hand fitting them. I spoke with the client and he's up for a collaborative project on this between myself and another knifemaker if necessary. Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

Frank,
Does he want these characters inlayed separately or engraved in an inlay?
 
Separately inlaid. Looking for high contrast between a dark wood and the bright nickel silver. I myself think that would look very classy but it's beyond what I'm going to be able to achieve by hand.
 
Hello Frank,

If you want to do it yourself, take a look at the Pantograph I built for doing some Inlay work here: http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?171654-Dremel-Pantograph-for-Inlay-work




I admit, its not lettering, but it does any shape you want depending on the template even irregular ones and its capable to engrave on curved surfaces to some extent also. It did a fine job on the small shields with barely a noticeable gap. The downside is you will have to make a Template first of the work you want to engrave - which can be time consuming with intricate shapes like letters but the brand seems to be doable. Even if it does not work out such a pantograph could make inlaying your shields faster and more comfortable. Especially if you do the same size repeatedly. Once you have made the proper templates its just set up in the right position and have a go. Perfect fit in minutes with only a minimum of Hand fitting.

The pantograph its self was relatively easy to build. If you watch out for accurate placement of the holes and make it a rigid construction without flex it will work fine. Does not match the accuracy of a good CNC but is a mere fraction of the cost.

I was a bit wary at first but since I have built one I find it a valuable addition to the shop.

Best regards
Ralph
 
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rolynd -

Thank you for the link. I will definitely look into this, as the holidays always bring additional requests for customization. It looks like a good machine.
 
I've done some thinking about the Christmas time frame with this, and looked up the very nice but also thousand dollar plus vintage pantograph mills and finished the thread and associated documentation regarding the home built version.

For this knife, this year, I'm leaning strongly towards another maker with the experience and equipment doing the handle job in ebony or bog oak, of which I can provide the latter and possibly the former, with a finished, bolstered blade I provide. There's only so many hours left this year and I am going to be unable to learn a new process with everything I have on deck already.
 
Here's the update. This spring, after Christmas, the client wants to move forward with two knives with this inlay, 00/, into the handle scale on the logo side of the knife. There will possibly be a blade etch for the monogram, which I can handle on my end. These are going to be nice knives, possibly with a mirror polish, and I'm thinking ebony for the handle scales, but I also have heard that ebony will always eventually crack.
 
I checked out my copy of Handles and Guards and found that there are about 10 pages of how to in the back of the book. Basically you would make small tools to incise the pattern for the inlay, then drive the silver wire (that is really more like a ribbon) into the incision and then sand it smooth. Do a search for silver wire inlay and you will see how well this would work for your project. Here are a couple of Joe's tutorials: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTsVoiHd4Wc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ppTPPxDGh0.

I hope this helps.
 
Thank you, Wayne. I may have direct access to that book, as well. I'll take a deeper look - the only reason I'm leaning towards the inlay of the brand using the pantograph is that I can have a wide, bold character to the lettering. I'll see what's obtainable with the wire.
 
I have worked quite a bit with ebony, Its a nice wood but the dust makes quite a mess. As for cracking - yes it likes to do this especially when it gets too hot. When resawing handle slabs make sure you dont overheat it . The cracks can be very fine and may not be obvious on the first glance but can be problematic later. I also do some small turning with ebony and a piece that looks fine and sound may unexpectedly fly apart in the turning process because of the cracks. If you polish it with a buffer and it gets too hot you may get some crazing on the surface. Wire inlay in the traditional way with hammerind flat silver wire into grooves is a hard job to do on ebony because of its density and hardness. The grooves need to be very near the width of the wire because the wood does not have so much flex/give when you hammer in the wire as softer woods like walnut.
 
"Wire inlay in the traditional way with hammerind flat silver wire into grooves is a hard job to do on ebony because of its density and hardness."

Yes, Joe mentions that Ebony is not a good candidate for Silver Wire Inlay.
 
Again, thank you all for your input. I've got some time to work on this one and am mulling over options. PM's received.
 
Use a technique from the jewelry industry. Measure the OD of the size you want the initials to be. Then find a core or hole drill that size. Measure the thickness of the side of the core drill. Measure the diameter of the inner core drill hole. Subtract the OD from the ID and that will be the size of the wire you will need.
The process is to drill the proper size hole, use wire or sheet to make an "O", using the proper thickness . Use a #54 round graver to raise slight downward facing beads on the outside of the sleeve, and also on the inside. Assemble by a light coat of epoxy on the sleeve, tap into hole. Take the core from sawing and tap it into the center,the previous raised beads keeping them in place. Leave 1/16" above the surface for finishing.

Use a jeweler's saw to cut out the shape of the bar to the same size of the wire used, raise downward beads on the metal and tap in,

Cavet: I have done this technique using fine silver in my jewelry work...but I still can't grind a decent blade. :) ...Teddy
 
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