Hand sanding Lubricant

Cutting oil is probably a bit of overkill. It's really designed for high temp/high pressure applications, far beyond what you're gonna be able to produce by hand rubbing. Seems like it be needlessly messy as well?
 
Hey, just thought if your store shelves are getting empty, I got by with synthetic two-stroke snow-mobile oil. I tried regular Castrol, but the smell was too strong. I think reading that Mobile 1 was the way to go, made me think to try this. I don't think folks will need snow-mobile oil for the next several months.
 
soundmind said:
Hey, just thought if your store shelves are getting empty, I got by with synthetic two-stroke snow-mobile oil. I tried regular Castrol, but the smell was too strong. I think reading that Mobile 1 was the way to go, made me think to try this. I don't think folks will need snow-mobile oil for the next several months.
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Maybe...maybe not We got 5 inches of snow last night. :oops:
 
Smallshop said:
Unicorn tears or 409...whichever I have on hand. Give 409 a try...it floats away the swarf better than anything I have tried.
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Side splitting laughter.jpg Good to see you up and kicking. Was thinking about that I hadn't seen a post from you recently!! "Unicorn tears" now that is funny!!

I have used Marvel Mystery Oil https://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ and had good results. My father used to believe in the stuff and the distinct smell makes me think of working with him in the shop as a kid!!
 
Old thread, but I have a question...

Has anyone tried using Armorall for a metal sanding lubricant? As I recall it is very slippery...
 
I use water in a spray bottle with just a couple drops of dish soap to break surface tension. I use that for stainless all the way to the finish. For carbon, I use the water/soap until I get to the finish sanding, once I’m doing the last bit I switch to WD40, just so it doesn’t rust or discolor.
 
C Craft said:
View attachment 72595 Good to see you up and kicking. Was thinking about that I hadn't seen a post from you recently!! "Unicorn tears" now that is funny!!

I have used Marvel Mystery Oil https://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ and had good results. My father used to believe in the stuff and the distinct smell makes me think of working with him in the shop as a kid!!
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I know this is an old post, but the info is pertinent: Mystery Oil contains a couple compounds that are suspected carcinogens (dichlorobenzenes). I would limit skin exposure.
 
I'm going to try using this Cool Fusion Grinding Fluid. I have a gallon I use with my misting set-up. I'm going to mix 10-1 and see if I like it. I'm tired of the mess and the smell of the canned spray oil I've been using.

This is for stainless steel. It's basically all I use...

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Mobil 1 synthetic in 5W or 0W. I believe that your sanding technique, the pressure you use, the paper you use all make it a fairly personal thing. I tried everything and had been using windex for a long time. Once I got onto Mobil 1 it was a revelation. Mobil 1 does not cut as fast, but it is fantastic at keeping your paper from loading up. The smeared looking spots that come from using paper with loaded up spots goes away and so does chasing the j-hooks you didn't see. You can literally see the debris and steel dust suspended in the oil versus laying on the surface of your blade. I was so impressed with Mobil 1 that I switched all of my cars over to it.
 
John Wilson said:
Mobil 1 synthetic in 5W or 0W. I believe that your sanding technique, the pressure you use, the paper you use all make it a fairly personal thing. I tried everything and had been using windex for a long time. Once I got onto Mobil 1 it was a revelation. Mobil 1 does not cut as fast, but it is fantastic at keeping your paper from loading up. The smeared looking spots that come from using paper with loaded up spots goes away and so does chasing the j-hooks you didn't see. You can literally see the debris and steel dust suspended in the oil versus laying on the surface of your blade. I was so impressed with Mobil 1 that I switched all of my cars over to it.
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That's what I've been using.
 
I do a lot of hollow grinds up to 20 inch wheel and i will grind to 15 micron with 3m film back belts and off to the buffer for a great finish......on flat ground knives i basically have to hand sand after 320 grit on the rotary platen......i dont use any fluid on the hand sanding and get a good finish......it does make me lean toward using more hollow grinds....a hollow grind on a 20 in wheel looks very similar to a flat grind without all the hand sanding......a great grind on fillet knives
 
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