Hand sanding Lubricant

Gliden07

Well-Known Member
What's everyone using to lube for hand sanding. I have been using WD40 or similar spray lubes since I started. Decided to look into other lubes. I've seen and read about people using Windex, Mobil 1, Transmission fluid, water with dish detergent in it. What do you use and why?? I'm really curios about this.
 
I used to use wd40 a lot. Tried Mobil 1 once....didn't like the smell or mess. Stopped using wd40 when I noticed I could taste it while sitting watching tv in the evening. Figured that can't be good.

Now I use nothing at all. I like not having a mess to clean up prior to etching a blade, hoping I got all the oil/fluid/lube off so I didn't ruin my etch.
 
I couldn't stand the smell of wd40 in the shop, so I switched to windex. But then I read somewhere someone was using "seafoam deep creep", so I thought I'd try it out...it seems to work awesome. You can just spray a bit on your steel and watch it move, it's crazy. So my thoughts were, if it's moving around this much it should be helping to clean out the sandpaper as well. I'll try and get a video up later to show what I'm talking about
 
I get much more life out of my abrasives and a quicker cut by floating the metal residue with some kind of fluid. I started out, like everybody else, with Wd-40, but hated the black staining ink mess it made, and being a lubricant it only sort of aids in the cut. I quickly got away from oil based fluids for all of these reason's. My very good friend Dr. Lucie showed me how well formula 409 cleaner worked, as does simple green, but I am not fond of the latter. These water based fluids, rather than lubricate, help the abrasive cut more effectively and clean up very nicely. The trick with water based fluids is to defeat the rusting that can occur, this can be done with detergents or by shifting the pH up to the base side, which is why Windex and other ammonia based cleaners will work.

I eventually started mixing my own- water, a couple drops of Dawn (for a surfactant), a little ammonia, perhaps some TSP (very good cleanup) and then cut it with a decent amount of denatured alcohol. The alcohol helps dry the blade off with time even if the higher pH stops the rust. I used this for some time, and still do in a pinch, but one day I realized that I had gallons of actual fluid designed to prevent rust while aiding in cutting operations in the form of my water based coolants in my diamond saw, surface grinder and mills. Now I just fill a spray bottle up with the same cutting fluid and go at it, but I may add little of my old ingredients to help with certain applications.
 
Last edited:
I've been using Mobil 1 oil. After reading some of the posts here though I might switch to something water based. I used Simple Green a long time ago. Quit using it simply because I ran out. I had Mobil 1 on hand and started using it.
 
Started with wd40, then windex, then simple green. Recently picked up some 409 stone and steel cleaner, and I think I like it the most so far.
 
I get much more life out of my abrasives and a quicker cut by floating the metal residue with some kind of fluid. I started out, like everybody else, with Wd-40, but hated the black staining ink mess it made, and being a lubricant it only sort of aids in the cut. I quickly got away from oil based fluids for all of these reason's. My very good friend Dr. Lucie showed me how well formula 409 cleaner worked, as does simple green, but I am not fond of the latter. These water based fluids, rather than lubricate, help the abrasive cut more effectively and clean up very nicely. The trick with water based fluids is to defeat the rusting that can occur, this can be done with detergents or by shifting the pH up to the base side, which is why Windex and other ammonia based cleaners will work.

I eventually started mixing my own- water, a couple drops of Dawn (for a surfactant), a little ammonia, perhaps some TSP (very good cleanup) and then cut is with a decent amount of denatured alcohol. The alcohol helps dry the blade off with time even if the higher pH stops the rust. I used this for some time, and still do in a pinch, but one day I realized that I had gallons of actual fluid designed to prevent rust while aiding in cutting operations in the form of my water based coolants in my diamond saw, surface grinder and mills. Now I just fill a spray bottle up with the same cutting fluid and go at it, but I may add little of my old ingredients to help with certain applications.
Good info as usual, sir! I use the Windex instead of the simple green for the “rust control “properties. Dr. Lucie was the fellow who told me years ago at Batsons about using hard rubber blocks to see end up in to the plunge.
 
I use Windex with ammonia or nothing. I already have the Windex around because I use it to neutralize the Ferric Chloride. With coarser grits I use the Windex with fine grits doing one direction pulls I like to see the steel so I may not use anything.
 
Back
Top