Hand sanding liquid? Windex vs tapping fluid?

As mentioned, rust can be an issue. Something in Windex, maybe the ammonia, seems to help in that regard. Obviously, WD40 or cutting fluid will reduce the chance of rust to about zero. One reason to not use oily stuff would be the cleanup, especially if you need totally squeaky clean for say etching.
 
Taz575 said:
Most of the places I have seen recommend Windex for hand sanding a blade. I used Windex on a HHH Damascus 254mm gyuto I made (Also a S Grind) and it worked pretty well to go up to an 800 grit finish before etching and then 1200 after etching. I made up a sanding block about 3/8" thick and one edge flat and the other edge has a radius to match my radius platen. I have a 210mm Magnacut K tip S Grind blade I had to hand sand. Started at 120 and worked my way up to 800. Partway through the process, I decided to try some tapping fluid (Tapmatic IIRC??) instead of Windex and I was shocked at how much better it worked! Sandpaper stayed cutting a LOT longer; I used maybe a 2" section per grit instead of 6-8" per grit and it seemed to give a cleaner, more even finish. Anyone else try tapping/cutting fluid instead of Windex for hand rubbing blades??
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I use a mixture of simple green and water, 50/50.
 
I start sanding at 80 grit. I use nothing up to 320. After 320, I’ll use Windex up to 1000. If I go beyond that, I use WD40. That’s to prevent spotting. On stainless I use Windex all the way. Seems to cut better than oil.
 
Use caution. I learned long ago to avoid anything with ammonia in it is not good for cleaning the bores of my rifles. I don't know right off hand if windex has ammonia but if it does I'd be cautious. It seems that once ammonia gets into micro scratches, pits etc. it's corrosive properties are hard to stop.
I'm not saying don't use it just to be anal about getting it all off any metal if it does indeed contain ammonia.
Just my experience with ammonia and metal.
 
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