Grinding clip for false edge

Gliden07

Well-Known Member
How do you guys do this?? I tried a bunch of ways and keep getting multiple angles. And just when I think perfect I mess up the other side. Is there some sort of jig?? I've been trying it free hand but it's not working like I imagined!!
 
@John Wilson showed me a way to do that using a work rest and a block of wood. I cut the block of wood to the angle I wanted, in my case 30 degrees, clamped it to the work rest and ground my false clip that way.
 
@John Wilson showed me a way to do that using a work rest and a block of wood. I cut the block of wood to the angle I wanted, in my case 30 degrees, clamped it to the work rest and ground my false clip that way.

Well I ended up doing something pretty similar. I took a piece of wood and made a quickie extreme angle work rest. It worked GREAT!! I screwed up and did clip about half way thru the flat grind, will wait til blade is almost done next time! Ended up with 3 angles on clip looked like S#!$!! Anyway we're back on the road! Hand sanding after we pick out some nice handle material!
 

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I use a bubble jig ,if you want to use a block or grinding jig I would recommend have it at 90 degrees and tilting your platen to the desired angle using digital angle block,that way your not set in stone so to speak and can make adjustments as needed or for different size blades and thicknesses.
 
I literally just posted this on another thread.

This is Dan Warren's method. ABS Master Bladesmith. Pretty good video. I freehand mine, but also do it on a contact wheel similar to the way he is grinding here. Also, if get multiple angles when you are grinding, but you can clean that up after the fact by draw filing the clips to even it out and get it symmetrical. Then hand sand to finish.

 
I always blue dykem the blade and scribe a center line down the spine. Then I take a pair of caliper's and decide how far I want the false edge to come down the blade and scrip a line on both sides of the bevels. Then I have a visual reference to guide me to get them even. If I don't get them ground exactly where I want them, I will draw file the clip after to even it up, then hand sand to finish. Oh, and you can get multiple angles when you first start grinding on a low grit belt. Once you get your clip ground in, it gets easier to even it all out on higher grit belts.

I grind my clips parallel to the platen or contact wheel, like shown in Dan Warren's video. I've seen guys grind across the platen perpendicular, but I've never been able to be very successful with that technique.

Also, you get a different look depending on whether you grind on a flat platen or a contact wheel. I literally just got a contact wheel last summer. I much prefer the look you get from the contact wheel. The top picture was ground vertically on a flat platen. The bottom was ground on a 10" contact wheel.

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I literally just posted this on another thread.

This is Dan Warren's method. ABS Master Bladesmith. Pretty good video. I freehand mine, but also do it on a contact wheel similar to the way he is grinding here. Also, if get multiple angles when you are grinding, but you can clean that up after the fact by draw filing the clips to even it out and get it symmetrical. Then hand sand to finish.

I saw that post. I wanted to see what others were saying after I posted this! Thanks!!
 
Alrighty, got to ask a question. The tip of the spine would not be ground to sharp right, because otherwise you would get the clip grind line not meeting up with the point? Hope that makes sense. So if that is true, how thick do you leave the clip at the point? Thanks!
 
Alrighty, got to ask a question. The tip of the spine would not be ground to sharp right, because otherwise you would get the clip grind line not meeting up with the point? Hope that makes sense. So if that is true, how thick do you leave the clip at the point? Thanks!
This is Scott McGhee, ABS Master Bladesmith. He grinds all of his clips to a sharp edge.

 
Ok, still trying to wrap my mind around how you can grind a bevel without the line shifting down. Thanks

Edit: Think I figured it out. The reason the grind line for the false edge can come out at the tip is because the main bevels thin the tip.
 
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