So, I had an issue with my first knife getting the grind the same on both sides. It shallows out towards the tip on one side. Maybe I'm not using the jig correctly...not too sure but it's been fun learning. Started working on a 5" Kiridashi this weekend so I could get 2 attempts out of 1 12" stick of steel. Doing the scales out of some scrap cocobolo. I'll post pics soon.
Grind Symmetry
- Thread starter diverdale
- Start date
Justin W.
Well-Known Member
Hey do you have any way to send us some pictures so that we can see what it looks like
Motor City Mike
Well-Known Member
I've scrapped more blades than I've finished and 95% of those went south on the grinder
Gotta just keep at it
Practice practice practice
Gotta just keep at it
Practice practice practice
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
Did you mark your centerlines on both the edge and spine sides?
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
Pics will help these guys diagnose the issue. Also a picture of the jig and grinder will help.
Justin W.
Well-Known Member
Yeah that one helped me a ton
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
I always advise students to start with blades no longer than 3 1/2". Grind/make several of those, then add to blade length 1-2" at a time. If you start small, you'll be surprised at how easy it is to maintain symmetry.
If you insist on starting with longer blades, it's exponentially more difficult to gain the feel to achieve symmetry.
If you insist on starting with longer blades, it's exponentially more difficult to gain the feel to achieve symmetry.
Von Gruff
KNIFE MAKER
Why do you mark the centerline of the spine side John. The blade edge for sure but marking the spine side is something I have never done.
Drew Riley
Well-Known Member
I started out with chisel grinds, personally. I figure if I couldn't make ONE side look good, I didn't stand a chance for 2. 
A scribed center line (or better yet, 2 lines about .015 to .030 apart) does really help. I sometime mark where I want my plunge lines to stop as well.
Also make sure that your stock is flat. A warped piece will grind differently on both sides. Lastly, use sharp belts! A dull belt, particularly one that is duller on one side, will give you a heck of a time when trying to match things up. Along that same line, make sure your grinding pressure is even and not favoring one side (unless doing a sweeping plunge or something fancy.)
A scribed center line (or better yet, 2 lines about .015 to .030 apart) does really help. I sometime mark where I want my plunge lines to stop as well.
Also make sure that your stock is flat. A warped piece will grind differently on both sides. Lastly, use sharp belts! A dull belt, particularly one that is duller on one side, will give you a heck of a time when trying to match things up. Along that same line, make sure your grinding pressure is even and not favoring one side (unless doing a sweeping plunge or something fancy.)
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
I can’t judge the evenness of the taper unless I mark the spine side. On a hunting knife I only mark the last 1/3 or so to the tip, but on kitchen knives that get a full length taper I mark the spine all the back into the handle area.
I found when I was only marking the edge side that I’d have one side of the tip thicker than the other. Being able to hold the knife up and look at it from both the edge and spine, knowing where actual center is, helps me a great deal.
It may be a problem of my own creation because I free hand everything, but this is my solution.
Von Gruff
KNIFE MAKER
Got you now. Because I can hold the same bevel from one end to the other via my jigs I can also maintain the spine taper through keeping the edge grind equal to either side of the centerline