Fossil

Walt2

Walt2

Well-Known Member
I have been seeing a lot of Fossil scales for sale on ebay lately. I have never used any, how is it to work with? Any thing to watch for to keep from messing up with it? Thanks
 
Last edited:
Although it might seem counter intuitive, Fossil Ivory (I assume that's what you talking about) has it's own unique characteristics. It is affected adversely from heat, the thinner the scales, the worse it is. Even warm to the touch while grinding can cause scales to warp. It must be ground SLOWLY, and if is gets warm, you must lay it aside and let it cool naturally to room temp in order to prevent problems. It will also "move" with humidity changes, and that issue becomes very obvious AFTER the scales are on the knife. Another annoying issue is that when you drill it, it will often "chip" where the drill bit exits....the best way I have found to combat this is to tape the exit side with masking tape, but even then the chips will still sometimes occur. The keys are to work it slow and easy. The material itself is expensive enough, but the difficulty in working it is another reason that knives with this material tend to cost so much. There's no way I could accurately described all the issues that can occur with it...each piece or set of scales present their own unique challenges. Over the years I have learned, though hard experience, that it's not a matter of IF you will wreck a piece or set of scales, it WHEN. I've come to realize that it's just part of using Fossil Ivories.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
There's no way I could accurately described all the issues that can occur with it...each piece or set of scales present their own unique challenges. Over the years I have learned, though hard experience, that it's not a matter of IF you will wreck a piece or set of scales, it WHEN. I've come to realize that it's just part of using Fossil Ivories.
Click to expand...

Ed,
I don't recall why I was thinking this, or if it's even possible, but I know I've seen it somewhere where some of the stabilizing companies were stabilizing Ivory, as well as the Mammoth Ivory, if I'm remembering this right, is it the same?
Thanks, Rex
 
Yes, there are companies which will stabilize ivory, but that only takes you so far. Stabilization may keep ivory from cracking from being layed on a warm, sunny window sill, and may not be quite as likely to break if dropped but it's still going to be somewhat prone to breaking and chipping. Even though "fossilized" ivory is more stable than fresh ivory, even with stabilization, there are some problems with the product that just aren't going to go away completely.

Doug Lester
 
Like Doug said, there are outfits stabilizing Fossil Ivory, but what has be understood about stabilizing...if it's a natural material, all stabilizing does is MINIMIZE whatever issue a given material might exhibit...it will not prevent those issues, and in some cases it seems to worsen given issues. I can remember when stabilizing first hit the market, I was so exited I couldn't stand it....all I could think about was how all my handle material problems were over! NOT!! I found myself VERY disappointed because handle material was still "moving", expanding and shrinking like it had always done in a non-stabilized state....just not as much. At first I was angry and complained to the companies who had stabilized the materials for me....that's when I (thankfully) got set straight on my mindset. My expectations were unreasonable...I expected a perfectly stable product....and that's just not the case. While SOME of the undesirable characteristics of Fossil Ivories can be minimized with stabilizing, I personally think that stabilizing fossil ivory induces more issues than it solves...namely the finishing characteristics....in my experience stabilized fossil ivories come out looking "cloudy", and the stabilizing often times changes the hue of the colors present in the bark. I also believe that stabilized fossil ivory is more prone to warpage from grinding/heat.
 
Great info guys. I have a pair of fossilized scales ordered. It's mammoth bone scalles & I assume that it will have the same or simular issues that have been descussed? Can I epoxy them only (useing spacer material between the blade & the mammoth) or do i have to use pins also? I only paid $25.00 so it the learning leason won't bite me too hard if I screw up.
 
If the bone scales are the outside of the bone they may work quite well. Not near as difficult as mammoth ivory or tooth scales. If they are the the inside of the bone, the pourous part, I found they are a lost cause. They will crumble away as you grind on them. I will no longer bother with them. Frank
 
The scales are from the outside layer. I got them from charles at Fine Turnage productions.
!CB8NWzgCWk~$(KGrHqEOKp!E0UNLbKYcBNJhN!MYMg~~_3.JPG
 
Doug if its bone it will react more like bone. Ivory is a completely different story. Ed is right ive ruined a nice pair of scales from over heating and have not tried it since because my vfd isnt hooked up. Then I ll try it again, bone and horn are much the same Im sure youll be fine. I would like to add there are some woods that hate heat as well with snake wood being at the top of the list. Kellyw
 
Doug,
You did well by buying from Turnage. Charles is a first class guy with great products and service.

When looking on Ebay keep in mind that what you are looking at may very well be Mammoth ivory. It will be called fossil bark. Ebay will not accept a listing using the word "Ivory" due to the "ban and pre-ban" status of elephant ivory. Mammoth is not covered by Fish and Game because it is an antiquity and no longer a regulated species. Ebay can't or doesn't want to figure this out, so they just ban ivory listings.

All the other info you have recieved on this thread on it's use is top notch. Just keep it cool and you and your customers will love the results.

Steve
 
One thing that I find very inportant when working the mammoth items is if sizing dowm the ivory make sure you use a course newer belt like first 60 grit and the 120. For tooth material you want to try silicon carbide it does a great job. A 120 grit and a 400 or so will do great things for you where the regular blaze and such don't really do much removal but sometimes a lot of destroying.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top