Forge

It usually costs $1 per lb. here. Though I now have a 500 gallon tank and last time I had it filled it was $2.40 per gallon. 1 gallon is about 4.2 pounds so it's a lot cheaper than I was paying.

Previously I was using 40lb tanks and they were $40 to refill.
 
A rental bottle in my area is right around $17.50. For a tank you own it runs me right at $15 for a twenty.
 
After the other replies, what little progress I've made on my new forge to date seem very rough. None the less I agreed to post photos of where I'm at, so here they are.

This is my current setup. A paint can and a Campbell's soup can with heat blanket insulation. It does OK though the PID (which I bought for the new forge) isn't very accurate for a number of reasons.
Current Forge.jpg

Here's the new forge body from the same size air compressor that you've shown Kevin. It's roughly 16" long. I cleaned off all of the old paint and as soon as I can warm my shop up I have some high heat paint I'll be applying. I'm stuck at this point because I don't have a welder for the pipe for the burners. I need to find someone to weld to get this thing finished up.
new forge body.jpg

I purchased a dual line from Atlas Forge and also their 100K burners. I know you can make burners from scratch but I looked into that and decided it was more economical (and safer) to get them from Atlas.

Frankly if I didn't have so much invested in this project I would get an Atlas mini forge and call it good. But assuming I can get this up and running correctly I shouldn't need another forge for a very long time.
Dual line.jpg
Burners.jpg
 
With a forge size does matter. If you only make knives and those knives are never more than 10 inches long overall then you may not need a 16 inch forge. If you look at the pictures of my san-mai attempt I got that forge because it has a wide heat chamber and the back opens so I can put large stuff in there. I did this because I also do general blacksmith work so there is no telling what I will have in there. Last month it was a bent up plow shear I fixed for a customer yesterday it was a san-mai billet. My point is design the forge to do the work you do. A single burner knifemaker would not work well for me but there are many blade makers that would only need that and a larger forge would be wasted space. If you intend to forge weld two burners would be better etc, etc.
 
Here is a link for good burners for a good price. I think 60dollars each. Link
That is a great price. The only issue I see with them is I am not sure how you would set this up to run one burner only W/O the “chimney effect” occurring. If I never intended to use one burner or if I was making a one burner I would have to consider those.
 
That is a great price. The only issue I see with them is I am not sure how you would set this up to run one burner only W/O the “chimney effect” occurring. If I never intended to use one burner or if I was making a one burner I would have to consider those.
I have not used these. A professional blacksmith I know does and he said they are great but he use's 2 on a propane tank forge. What is the "chimney effect"?
 
I'll give my quick $0.02 on burners. I mentioned earlier that I was a fan of the forced air or blown-style burners.

Venturi burners tend to be picky and fussy. They work best with a certain size forge. Oftentimes they only get hot enough if your forge is very well insulated so you see people struggling to get to welding heat. They can be hard to get the neutral/reducing atmosphere you might want in your forge. The better ones have air chokes that basically allow you to cover up some of the hole to lower the amount of air it pulls in. They dont work well if you are at high elevation because of the lower oxygen in the air. Also, it can be a bit of a challenge to make your own venturi and get it to burn properly. If I was going to go with a venturi, I'd buy a t-rex from hybrid burners (but these are quite pricey). They are really nice burners and I'd be confident that it would be relatively hassle-free. All that said, once you get your venturi tuned properly and running how you want in your forge, it's pretty much set it, and forget it.

A blown burner is extremely simple to construct. There's no tiny orifices to get aligned or clogged. It's basically just plain pipe run into your forge with a blower and a propane line hooked up. Typically the propane would have a needle valve and you'd either use the damper on the blower to block the intake or put in an air gate valve afterwords. Running a blown burner is sorta like getting an oxy-acetylene rig going. You adjust your gas to whatever you want and you adjust your air to whatever you want. In that way it is 100% adjustable to whatever atmosphere you want in your forge. It also doesn't care what size your forge is or how well it's insulated. They get hot, really hot. I've never heard of a blown burner not hitting welding temperature. The down side to blown burners is that you have to have electricity to run the blower. You can have a multitude of forges in your shop and use the same blown burner for every one by just moving it around. Most of the expense with these is getting a proper blower. The only issue I've had with blown burners is they can be tricky sometimes to get running at a lower temperature.

On another note, most bladesmiths like to have their burners come in at a tangent to the inside chamber. This causes the flame to swirl inside the forge which reduces the hot spot given off by the burner and gives you a more even heat inside your forge.
 
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What is the "chimney effect"?
This is the top of my forge burners. In the pic they are set up for one burner to operate the other if not blocked off by the piece of metal I have in there will blow forge hot air up to the gas connectors. Like a chiminey. I do not know enough about gas stuff to determine if that is dangerous or not but I know how to keep it from occurring to be sure.D2B29A64-6A55-41EB-89B0-35B5AC81E8A7.jpeg
 
This is the top of my forge burners. In the pic they are set up for one burner to operate the other if not blocked off by the piece of metal I have in there will blow forge hot air up to the gas connectors. Like a chiminey. I do not know enough about gas stuff to determine if that is dangerous or not but I know how to keep it from occurring to be sure.View attachment 67196
I hear you. I use a blown burner that I make sure I can remove from the forge when I'm done forging. It just didn't click in my head when I read "chimney effect". Chimney effect could actually melt the inside of your fan on a blown burner. Your defiantly right about it, it could happen on any burner
 
A question to the more experienced... would it be possible and useful to have a long forge with 2-3 burners... which you can blank off a section of the forge, as and when it needs to be blanked off?
The only thing I could think you would want a long forge for is to heat treat a short sword but you can still heat treat anything in a short forge just by pumping it in and out the forge until you get a even heat. Also unless you have a press or a power hammer you can only forge 6inch of hot steel efficiently in 1 heat.
 
A question to the more experienced... would it be possible and useful to have a long forge with 2-3 burners... which you can blank off a section of the forge, as and when it needs to be blanked off?
For general blacksmith work yes in my opinion. I have my forge set up with two burners but I normally block half of the forge off with firebrick and run one burner until I forge something large like a plow shear. If you are only going to do knife work maybe not.
 
Kevin if your just going to use it for heat treating build a 1 brick forge. Cheap to build too, if you have a decent propane torch should be well under 50 bucks! If you need a torch 70 bucks! I bought one that would do Mapp as well as Propane.
 
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I have my forge set up on that exact hf cart. I forge in my garage, so the ability to wheel the forge somewhere is essential to me.
I too, used that cart when I was using the one Atlas mini. When I built my bottle forge, I put both forges on the bigger, black HF cart. It allows me room to carry one 30 lb tank and 2 twenty lb tanks underneath. Self contained so I can store it out of my way in my tiny shop and roll it outside in nice weather.
20181016_155730.jpg
This was before I shifted things on the bottom to accommodate more bottles
 
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