Forge Exhaust Hoods

tkroenlein

Well-Known Member
I'm rearranging my hot work area. Currently, I'm set up kinda off to the side of my roll up garage door and I wheel the forge to middle and open the door. I'd really like to set it up stationary and put an exhaust hood over it.
Does anyone use an exhaust hood to take care of the CO? What type of fan an cfm would anybody recommend?
 

EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
I've used an exhaust hood for years.... but mine isn't "powered". I attempted t make is a "power" exhaust, but every fan I installed could not withstand the heat of the forge exhaust, and burned out. (I'm assuming we are talking gas/propane forges?)

The way I overcame it was two-fold..... I went to 10" pipe on the hood, but also installed gable fans on each end of the hot shop to circulate air......even when it's well below zero..... I have a window open on one end of the shop, and the gable fan running at the end the forges sit..... never gets below 60F with any of the forges running. :) If you'd like pics...let me know and I'll take a couple and post them.
 

tkroenlein

Well-Known Member
I've used an exhaust hood for years.... but mine isn't "powered". I attempted t make is a "power" exhaust, but every fan I installed could not withstand the heat of the forge exhaust, and burned out. (I'm assuming we are talking gas/propane forges?)

The way I overcame it was two-fold..... I went to 10" pipe on the hood, but also installed gable fans on each end of the hot shop to circulate air......even when it's well below zero..... I have a window open on one end of the shop, and the gable fan running at the end the forges sit..... never gets below 60F with any of the forges running. :) If you'd like pics...let me know and I'll take a couple and post them.
Yes, I'd love to see your set up. I'd wondered if I set the hood low enough the heat would naturally draw enough without a fan. Yes, I'm using propane.
 

EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
Here are some pics of how my hood/exhaust is set up....

The forges, and how the hood is positioned over them..


The hood is suspended by chains from the ceiling. Going straight up/through the roof wasn't a option for me, due to the type of insulation in the ceiling, so I went out as close as I could....


In this pic you can see the gable fan to the right.... even it gets so hot sometimes that it's thermal protection trips.....but once it cools down, if fires right back up again.


This is the gable fan on the other end of the shop....just remember that if you do install a gable fan, position it on an end, and have a window or door to open on the other end.


As I said before, I tried having a "draft" fan in the hood piping..... but every one I tried burned out within a few uses. I finally just gave up on fans in the piping, and found that I really didn't need one..... it's not a "suck your face off" kind of draft, but you can watch any smoke of fumes waft there way to the hood and get taken outside.
 

Jon Buescher

Well-Known Member
Here are some pics of how my hood/exhaust is set up....

The forges, and how the hood is positioned over them..


The hood is suspended by chains from the ceiling. Going straight up/through the roof wasn't a option for me, due to the type of insulation in the ceiling, so I went out as close as I could....


In this pic you can see the gable fan to the right.... even it gets so hot sometimes that it's thermal protection trips.....but once it cools down, if fires right back up again.


This is the gable fan on the other end of the shop....just remember that if you do install a gable fan, position it on an end, and have a window or door to open on the other end.


As I said before, I tried having a "draft" fan in the hood piping..... but every one I tried burned out within a few uses. I finally just gave up on fans in the piping, and found that I really didn't need one..... it's not a "suck your face off" kind of draft, but you can watch any smoke of fumes waft there way to the hood and get taken outside.
Ed, are those TOW tubes on the floor by your forges? they look like either TOW or ATGM or Javelin tubes. I guess they could be the AT-4 tubes too.
 
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EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
Jon..... those are containers for " 40lb cratering charges". One of my jobs in RED HORSE was explosives trainer..... we'd pick up the explosives from the weapons storage area, take them to the teaching/blast site, and at that time, they did not want the containers back....so I took a couple home, welded a disk blade base on each, and use one for a "light" quench oil (straight 10w oil), and the other for a slower quench (50/50 mix of SAE40 and SAE10. Those were the days when dumpster diving yielded treasures, and people were encouraged to do it. :)
 

Jon Buescher

Well-Known Member
Jon..... those are containers for " 40lb cratering charges". One of my jobs in RED HORSE was explosives trainer..... we'd pick up the explosives from the weapons storage area, take them to the teaching/blast site, and at that time, they did not want the containers back....so I took a couple home, welded a disk blade base on each, and use one for a "light" quench oil (straight 10w oil), and the other for a slower quench (50/50 mix of SAE40 and SAE10. Those were the days when dumpster diving yielded treasures, and people were encouraged to do it. :)
I got a few ammo cans and other containers from they civilians at the AHA. they just made me spray paint over the original labeling. My favorite is the 120MM Morter can. thing is awesome!, just need to find a quenchant to put in it

turns out you can buy them online
 

Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
I got a few ammo cans and other containers from they civilians at the AHA. they just made me spray paint over the original labeling. My favorite is the 120MM Morter can. thing is awesome!, just need to find a quenchant to put in it

turns out you can buy them online
I have one I bought from Sportsmans Warehouse. Five gallons of Canola oil fit perfect.
 
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