Fitting Tang

Once the main body is silver brazed together in the rear center, or soft soldered with a lap joint, you cut out and shape an oversized top plate. Usually 1/16" thick, or a bit less will do well, but you can go more or less. Sand one side with 220/240 grit paper. Dead true the top of your throat body. Best done by dragging over sand paper on a dead flat surface. Then tin the sanded side of the plate being a little generous with the solder, lay on a piece of flat polished window sill marble, or similar stuff that will with stand heat well. Set the throat down on the plate, flux the inside, heat the outside edges until you see the solder flow. Let cool, and then carefully grind and or file shape the top plate edges as you desire. Then you layout scribed lines where the blade will fit in, drill a few holes and start filing. If using brass, you will find any brass plate thicker than 1/32" quite hard to shape by hand pressure, and better in 22ga or even 24 ga. 1/32" is not very easy, but doable on a large size throat. I do the leather first, then with a spacer or the knife inserted, hand bend and vise pressure the throat metal around the scabbard, and go from there.



 
Thanks for the info - I'm making a file with that info saved so I don't lose it.

Ken H>
 
Brownell's Silvaloy 355 is a silver braze that I use to butt join the wrap around throat. It flows at 1250°, and with thin materials as most throats are, it only requires a common propane torch. It is very strong. The locket buttons, or hooks need the silvaloy to attach them to the throat, along with a pin reinforcement that goes into the button or hook base and through the throat wall. A 3/32" pin will do. You do that before installing the top cap, and have to trim and file off the excess underneath after installation.
 
KenH said:
Cliff, here's a photo of completed Bowie. Not the best photo, but you can see the whole thing - I should have laid a ruler by the Bowie, but at 19.5" long, it's a dandy!
View attachment 60870
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Ken, that turned out well. You done yourself proud, top shelf quality!! Two thumbs up!! I have a set of drawings for the Musso but not in that place to attempt it yet!!

On a side note:

Wick is my adopted mentor, I adopted him!!! :biggrin: He is the man when it comes to period stuff. I meant him on another site and was kind enough to offer me advice and let me pick his brain several times on period type questions. One day I hope to meet him in person!! See he doesn't mind sharing his craft with others. Funny part about all this he makes it look easy!! When I try it I feel kind of like this!!!!:s11779:
 
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LRB, thanks for the follow up info on the throat. This 3/32" pin you mention, that just sticks out of button slightly more than thickness of throat, silver soldered in, then filed smooth with inside of throat? I can see where that would add some support. While I would LOVE to do it in silver, I think brass will work just fine, and I have that on hand.

Cliff - thank you for nice words. Isn't it really NICE to have a good mentor for guidance? Looks like I've got LRB for my mentor on this project. Calvin has always been a really good mentor for me.

Ken H>
 
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"LRB, thanks for the follow up info on the throat. This 3/32" pin you mention, that just sticks out of button slightly more than thickness of throat, silver soldered in, then filed smooth with inside of throat? I can see where that would add some support."

Exactly, except since you will have to trim it anyway, the length is unimportant as long as it goes through. Now then, this may or may not be helpful to you, but I like to use it for brass throats. TANDY leather sells the old style Sam Brown brass button studs that were used on military holsters years ago. The brass base for these makes a perfect base for a custom throat button, and the stud itself will also, if you file the small button off and just use it as a base for your own button. However, an L shaped hook instead of a button on the throat is easy to make also. Saw it from 1/4" or 3/8" material and file to shape.
 
Hey Thanks for the Tandy Sam Browne stud idea - I looked it up on Tandy and that looks just right for the button on the brass throat. For use in real world I'd expect the L hook to be better at holding sheath in a sash or belt, but the button looks good and for hanging in display case, it'd work just fine. Hmmm, but the "L" sure does look functional, and I've always preached "functional" rather than "style".

Thanks again for all the help,

Ken H>
 
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