First Try With Bolsters....Failure

[Randy Lucius]

Tried my first knife with 416 stainless bolsters. I failed but I think I know what happened. The 416 was a little too thick to start with and I didn't get the pins "peened" in good enough. I used a tapered reamer for the holes and probably should have reamed it a little better too. Oh well, I'll try it again. I'll finish the knife as well as I can and give it to my brother. He said he would take my rejects.

 

[BrandantR]

That's a beautiful knife. I wouldn't give up on it quite so soon. It's possible to drill out the pins and start over. I've done it a couple of times with pretty good success. I used a drill that was a little smaller than the pin diameter and punched the rest through with another piece of pin stock. The type of outcome that your photos show happens when the pins haven't been expanded enough to fill the holes. Beat those pins like they stole something! I don't want to upset your brother, but you can fix this one. Hope this idea helps.

 

[Randy Lucius]

Thanks Brandant. I might give that a try after I quit crying.

 

[BossDog]

Bolsters are tough to do. That's why you don't see them as much anymore.

First consider switching to 3/32" pins. Much easier and faster.
You didn't mention the material but the pin metal has to match the bolster metal.

The pins look as though they weren't peened enough. Using a tapered reamer is the way to go. Take the time to make sure the hole is completely clean of oil, dirt, etc. Hand sand the pin lightly to remove the surface oxidation. It should be very clean as well.

The pins will stick out initially (both sides) about their diameter to 1.5x their diameter. Tap around the edges of the pin on a 45 degree angle, both sides -alternating- to mushroom the pin stick out flat. You don't want to split the pin metal as you mushroom, you want to move it smoothly to spread out. Check often to see the bolsters didn't move. If the bolsters wiggle initially when held with just pins, the bolsters will move for sure when peened.

Taping around the edges you are upsetting the pins to expand into the conical hole you made with your tapered pin reamer. Lot's of taps. When you have most of the mushroom done, you switch to the big hammer and go from tap, tap, tap, to smash, smash, smash. You are trying to get the pin material to blend into the bolster material and you have to give it some good whacks to get them to "fuse". Otherwise you end up with a pin shaped like the hole and the two metals don't really blend together.

My first few I didn't know any better. After that if I peened bolsters on and they showed, I took them off and started over. I remember one knife took 4 attempts. I still worry about pins showing today if I make one. It's not a perfect process.

 

[Randy Lucius]

Hi Boss! Thanks for the reply. I realize I didn't use enough force with the pins. It was looking good until I was about half way through sanding the bolsters and then the pins started to show. Had good "hole fill" in the top part but not further down in the bolsters. Pins are 416 stainless also. I was very careful about the cleanliness of pins and holes so I don't think it was a contamination problem just poor technique on my part. I use Blade Bond epoxy and it's fantastic stuff. (purchased from usaknifemakers). Brandant suggested drilling the pins out and trying again but there is some epoxy between the bolster and handle. Don't think I can get the bolster off without destroying the handle. I have a second knife in the works to try again. By the way, the knife was made using my No-Weld grinder built by me with plans purchased from you. It does a better job than me. Thanks again!!

 

[Dennis Morland]

If you choose to use epoxy under your bolsters, make sure that it does not hardened in the pin hole. Otherwise, you will get the dreaded ring. You need to beat the snot out of the pins to have a chance at not seeing the ring. Try your best to not get epoxy into the holes and one the pins. It takes some practice.

Also, I agree with Bossdog. Use 3/32 pins. Not as large as 1/8 but way easier to beat and hide.

Also, make sure everything is clean, clean, clean. The holes, the pins, need a very thorough cleaning before attachment. Otherwise you can get the ring just from oxidation.

Also, make sure everything is flat, flat, flat. A good fit helps more than anything else in getting the pins to disappear. If it fits good pre-attachment, you will be able to pien the pins much easier than if you have a poor fit/alignment.

Also, at least for me, with 416 stainless steel, I try to have the bolster as close to finished and shaped before attachment. It is way harder than any other handle material and it is hard for me to not get a bump/divot/seam at the edge of the bolster material where it meets the handle material. Stainless is removed at a much slower rate than say wood, G10, bone, etc. I struggle with that particular area when using 416. Not so much with brass. It is a bit softer.

BTW: For a first attempt, you did fairly well. I can see where a little more pre-shaping on the bolster itself, before attachment, will help your end result. Keep trying and practicing. You will get better every time. But, that is a pretty darn good first attempt.

Instead of removing the bolsters, I would attempt to use a nail set and strike around the pins hole showing. Just go around each ring and try and beat them down a bit more. Obviously, you will need to finish them again if you attempt to fix the "ring".

Keep grinding.

Dennis

 

[Dennis Morland]

I forgot to mention but in the second picture, you have another knife with a bolster. It is in the background to the left side. It is not a 416 bolster, but it is a bolster. It appears to be G10 or some sort of synthetic material. Easier to make, attach, shape and finish. But, still the same type of processes. 416 is just harder to complete and get a good result.

 

[Randy Lucius]

Thanks for the advice Dennis. I've done bolsters with mircarta but it's a different ballgame with 416 stainless.

I've also done some hidden pins for lanyards. Could I use hidden pins for the bolsters also?

 

[Smallshop]

WOW!!

 

[Doug Lester]

Lucius, I with my failures looked that good. Learn from your mistakes and try again, you've go talent.

Doug

 

[C Craft]

I have an EDC that has the same ghost ring. It has brass bolsters. The ghost ring has been there since shortly after I bought it, close to 15+ years now. My pocket knife is always carried in the same pocket as my change. My thinking is the change finally gave it a tumbled appearance and the ghost ring popped out.

Kind of like you said,

It was looking good until I was about half way through sanding the bolsters and then the pins started to show.

While unsightly in most makers eyes it has never affected performance of that EDC and believe me it has been used and abused!! This is what I use on mine not sure what others use!

I found out I leave my bolster full. After reaming and doming the pin I go to town on it, to make the whole pin swell and then sand down and polish to final finish height! But you have that same advice from several others as well!

I have a punch that looks like a spinner. I have actually have a rubber foot

(it is mounted to a foot that fits the hardy hole on my anvil) that I can use my hold down on the knife, on top of a brass plate, that I lay on top of my anvil and then go to town on a pin!!! The knife is locked down by the clamp the brass is against the knife and the anvil backs the entire operation.

 

[Rick Otts]

Sad thing I was in a sporting goods store awhile back and was looking at a Buck knife with bolsters and you could see the pins plain as day.Sad that someone passed that knife on to be sold.