The design is a very personal preference. I never judge other's design work.
The only thing I see is that the butt of the blade needs to be fit to the lockbar, and is there a detent pocket in the blade to keep it closed? If the butt of the blade serves as a shoulder for the detent ball, like your drawing might suggest, then the lockbar has to be stepped to achieve both lockup and detent retension. That can be tricky and non adjustable.
Love the cad work but I wouldn't want to be the guy who has to grind that blade. Regarding the bottom edge of the blade, if the top of your bevel lines are correct on the drawing and the bevel is meant to be straight but the edge is recurved, you will be doing a 3 dimensional grind similar to a distal taper to achieve that look. I'd say that unless these are CNC ground, go with "curve the edge = curve the top line of the bevel".
Thanks for the reply Steven. The blade will be fit to the lockbar. In this drawing it is just showing the extra blade that will be eventually grinded down to fit the lock. Yes, there will be a detent pocket in the blade. I have seen a similar grind done before by phantom steel works. So I know it can be done, but I agree that the level of difficulty will be high.
Like Steve, I try not to comment on design unless someone specifically asks for that, but a couple things I would watch closely are screw placement. They look very close to the edges, which can bite you later on. I'd also consider softening some of those points, might be hard on the pocket and hands. Design-wise, the only thing that seems off to me is the pocket clip. There's a contrasting angle between it and the lock bar that seems distracting to me. Might just be me. How was the class with Greg? I saw that on his website a while back and wondered what it would be like.
As far as the edges go, this is a computer drawing, so all the lines look "sharp". Pretty much all the edges will be chamfered, or knocked down so that it will be comfortable. In regards to the screws being to close. What would be the issue down the road? Just curious.
I see what you mean about that angle of the clip and lock bar. They do contrast each other. Will look into that more. Good eye!
The class with Greg was priceless. Learned more in two days than I could have imagined. Especially for someone like me who is just getting started, it helped a ton. I would have been screwed had I not gotten some help from him. He tore my first design apart, which I greatly appreciated. The lock angles and geometry. Detent, force from the blade to the lockbar, and on and on. Was a bit overwhelmed, but it got me even more excited about this journey.
Well, on the screws, I've only made 2 folders so far and both times I felt like I was in constant peril of grinding into the screw pockets. When they're really close to the edge, you just aren't giving yourself any wiggle room for the chamfering. If it were me, I'd add a few thousandths between the screw heads and the edges. But, then again, you may know exactly where you going, so it's just a suggestion to be thinking about.
When designing a folding knife, you should show all positions: open, half open, and closed. That will eliminate any fitting errors that can't be noticed on the open view. I always drew a circle around the pivot and made the 3 positions fit the circle.
I agree with Calvin; some pictures at least of the closed position would be helpful.
The sharp angles throughout the handle, and especially the flipper tab are the only things that would concern me about your design. Personal preference aside, I'd be worrying about hot spots from a practical standpoint. Even with some countouring/chamfering, you may still find it uncomfortable with extended use. Hard to say for sure without seeing how it's finished.
As Anthony pointed out, you may also be limiting how much chamfering you can get away with based on your screw locations, unless you contersink them fairly deep and use thicker materials.
Well since you asked.Yes, it is built like a tank isn't it? With tanks perhaps one Good sized one will work; with knives that doesn't apply. You made need - I certainly would - several knives to to certain jobs. That appliance you want to build might split apples apart with one blow but opening a fish in a smaller size forget it. As well I would much more appreciate having to do basic work with my 3" bladed .098 thick pocket knife than with that hand tiring weight lifter you are contemplating. As a "tactical" it really isn't either since I believe it's to sort and on the heave side.
But this is just me. And my honest outlook.
Think able the most important job you want this "knife" to do. You will soon have a mover reasonable idea to ask about, if still you have to .
If you are coming into the making thing don't let my comments disturb you but try to find something there that might be true. Hey, by the way WELCOME !!!