First handle question

W

Wiredude

Well-Known Member
So I'm working at my first handle, and its a little slow going without a grinder, but I'm learnin, so thats cool.
My question is this. What grit should I sand the inside of the scales to?
They're natural maple. I took them to 150g on what I'm using for a surface plate right now, but should I leave them at about that, take them even finer, or scuff em up a little?
 
once the insides are flat (!) with no chips or divots, then I scuff them on 60 grit to give the epoxy a foothold.


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flat = no gaps. It really helps when they are flat on both sides so that when you drill the pin holes everything will line up. If you drill through a skewed block, the pin holes will be skewed. That can be overcome if it's a planned feature. But flat is where it's at in the beginning.


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I knew the flat part :)
I have the insides flat enough they have a slight suction/vacuum if you put them together. The outsides, I did try and get them close enough that my holes wouldn't be skewed, and it worked. Drilled the holes this afternoon, and everything fits pretty good, especially for a first try. Just trying to get the rough shape a little closer, and get the front to final grits now. Thep it's time for epoxy fun
 
great job. i didn't fully appreciate flatness when i started. then i wondered why my pins didn't want to line up when I assembled the knife. (duhhhh). I'm ashamed to say that kicked my butt for a while!


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Thanks for the help and advice. I still need to finish my first blade, but I descided that since the handle on my cheap HF machete that I use for backyard brush was coming apart it was a perfect thing to try and rehandle, and get some practice in.
 
I don't recommend grinding handles with power tools except for synthetic material. They let you screw up real fast. I like the Japanese carving files that I got from Woodcraft to rough out the handle and then I go to sand paper. It's not significantly slower and you have a lot more control. You really only need the smaller size files, one flat and one half round. With care they will last you a long time.

Doug
 
I'll keep that in mind Doug. Right now I'm just using an 8" wood rasp, the ones that are flat on one side, half-round on the other, and also coarse on on end, fine on the other...
I probably just want it to go faster... lol maple does seem to be one of the harder, denser, non-exotics, at least in my limited woodworking experience.
Would have helped too if I had trimmed the scales a little closer, but I decided against trying to see how many coping saw blades that I could break in the 1/2" maple...
 
A disc sander, even a cheapo like those available at HF are a good investment for getting flat scales. Try to find one thats a 9" so that you can use regular sized sandpaper and cut your own discs...a lot more variety in your choices of sandpaper that way. Assuming your knife scales are around 4 inches long or so, the 9" disc sander allows you to use just half of the sander, which is sort of important so that the grind is always in the same direction. That said, I don't yet own a disc sander. :les: I flatten my scales on the 2x72 belt grinder instead. But I can definitely see the advantage in using a disc sander dedicated to the job...there's definitely going to be one in my shop in the not too distant future.
 
once 'flat', the inside of your scales needs to be fairly rough so the epoxy has a place to grab. 60 grit would work ok, you need to do the same to the knife tang. i have seen some folks drill shallow holes in the scales and tang so the epoxy has a place to go. remember not to clamp the scales too tightly after applying epoxy or all your epoxy will squish out and just make a mess. a useful tool i have found are sanding sponges, they conform to the edges so you can sand rounds and curves. they are also washable, so they will last for while.
 
The "x" on the scales is a genius idea, I messed up the bookmatch on my last knife and that would have saved it.

Also, more on topic...I have a chunk of 2x4 that I wood glue 60 grit sandpaper to and rub my scales on it, simultaneously flattening and texturing them....there is probably a better/easier way but it is cheap and simple.
 
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IanBryant said:
The "x" on the scales is a genius idea, I messed up the bookmatch on my last knife and that would have saved it.
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Yeah.. ask me why I started doing that! I'm so bad that I number my liners, too. (I layer various colored liners). Ever put your handle all together, epoxy squeezing out everywhere- and only THEN see that your liners went on in the wrong order? Oh yes, that's a fun time.
 
John Wilson said:
Yeah.. ask me why I started doing that! I'm so bad that I number my liners, too. (I layer various colored liners). Ever put your handle all together, epoxy squeezing out everywhere- and only THEN see that your liners went on in the wrong order? Oh yes, that's a fun time.
Click to expand...

Not yet lol I only have 2 finished knives under my belt but it sounds like something I would do.
 
I thought of another tip...since I epoxied some scales today..
Put wax on anything you don't want epoxy stuck to and you can just pick it off when it is cured. I use wood finishing wax but I would imagine that paraffin would work as well....also wait for the epoxy to cure before removing it. The wax comes off with it and there could be more squeeze out after...

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Good tip.

I use Unique Case Lube (because I have it laying around) to do the same thing- primarily on the front edges of the scales and the ricasso of the blade.
 
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