finishing with a forced patina??

Jbh blades

Jbh blades

Well-Known Member
Hey all, I want to do a forced patina on a 1095 carbon steel. I've read many things on the patina operation but What I cannot find is doing final fit and finish after the blade and tang have the desired finish. I an going to have stainless bolsters and a hardwood handle on this knife. Usually I have pinned / epoxied handle on then back to the grinder to shape, finish, then hand sand final handle finish. In this process I'd lose the patina on the tang belly and spine. So my question is, Should I patina after final finish? For example: finish handle, bolster and tape them off then apply patina with a brush.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 
I fit and finish my complete knife, guard, and handle using temporary pins. Then finish the metal parts. Tape up the blade and do final assembly. Works fairly well for me like that.
 
Thanks George, I thought about that method but was afraid about possible movement of the bolster while peening. I guess if all the holes line up that shouldn't be a problem. I've only done one set of bolsters and never done a patina finish. I appreciate the advice as I don't want to stain the bolster or discolor the wood. I've always set my handle material to the tang first then shaped down to the tang so this will be a little more of a technical fit.
Thanks again, knew someone would point me in the right direction!
 
Patina is the residue, discoloration, and surface condition that is formed on metal, wood, and other materials, caused by oxidation over time. Why would you want to apply a patina only to the blade, and have a brand new looking shiny grip?
 
Why would you want to apply a patina only to the blade, and have a brand new looking shiny grip?
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That's what the OP does NOT want to have, hence the his request for guidance.
 
I once decided to patina a blade after the fact. I used vinegar after taping up the handles. But the last time I actually used a very light application of cold blue. It worked better than I thought it would and the customer was happy with it.
 
Bryce, I'm struggling with the same thing right now too. I've got a blade sanded to 800 grit ready for scales. I'm using three Corbys though, so I shouldn't have much movement. My plan is to treat the scales just like you do the front edge. I'm going to try and completely shape and sand all 4 edges of the scales with the Corbys holding them on. Then remove them, etch the blade and epoxy them on, hopefully never touching the steel again. Then, finish the scale's sides as normal. That's my plan, but it seems like room for a lot error to me.
 
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