Finishing the spine spine advice?

Mark Barone

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
I tend to fight the spine at the end of my project. I can't seem to get the spine up to say 1000 grit like I do the wood. I use the dremel on the curves, then there is a little line and also the dremel doesn't really have fine sandpaper. I keep scuffing up the spine.
 
I've used wood dowel to wrap with sandpaper for some of the curves and different blocks and sticks for flats.
 
What grinder/sander are you using? I may be able to suggest a temporary fix. The fact remains that sometimes you just cannot avoid some level of hand finishing though.
 
Retroguy said:
I tend to fight the spine at the end of my project. I can't seem to get the spine up to say 1000 grit like I do the wood. I use the dremel on the curves, then there is a little line and also the dremel doesn't really have fine sandpaper. I keep scuffing up the spine.
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Dremel makes a split Dremel Split Mandrel mandrel that has a slot cut into it- that way you can take different grits of sandpapaer and use it to finish all the way around the whole handle and works great in the finger wells.
 
If you have an ocillating tool they make a contour sander kit for them that has many different shapes. You put small pieces of your own sandpaper on it and it holds it in place. I bought one but I have not used it yet. You should be able to get most anywhere with the kit.
 
Thanks guys, ok I ordered the dremel mandrel that Nick mentioned. I like that idea. I know hand sanding is important, I just need to get more skilled at it.
 
At some point to improve your fit and finish, you have to switch to hand finishing. A dremel is a great tool in certain circumstances but it butchers a knife compared to hand sanding when used in final finishing.
 
The easiest way for me is once the handle is done as such and the blade still safely wrapped in tape I put wet and dry on a flat surface such as the edge of the bench but with an inch or so overhanging the bench. I then put the spine firmly and squarely onto the wet and dry and with a single action draw the spine in a straight line towards me and over the edge, sometimes back and forth if a scratch is deep. Then I move the wet and dry towards me, just an inch so a fresh area is exposed and repeat the process, it really does not take long to get a great finish on the spine as you progress up the grits. You will surprised how long jus a sheet will last doing this as you only use a small area at a time. The same method works virtually all the way around the spine. Hopefully I have explained it correctly.

I suppose it is hand sanding in reverse as the paper is firm to the bench but the knife moving and as Tracey says you have to go to hand sanding for the best finish, something I learnt a while ago from advice on here. The other tip I was given was to use decent paper.....hence why the postie brought me 400 sheets of Rhynowet papers today, I wouldn't use any other papers now.
 
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