First time working with it. I have it on a utility style knife. Do you just sand it to a certain grit and oil or to you buff it?
Ed: When you bead blast the handle do you blast the exposed tang or do you somehow cover the tang edge to keep it looking shinny finished? Can you show an example of a finished G10 or Micarta handle bead blasted? I want to try this technique on my next G10 handle.My favorite way to deal with finishing Micarta or G10 is to finish out to 220 grit, bead blast, the a single, LIGHT coat of Tru-Oil. Finishing in that manner keep the material looking new....pretty much forever, instead of it turning dark and splotchy from hand oils, etc.
For folks who do not have a bead/sand blast cabinet, a FINE wire/carding wheel turning no fast than 2000RPM will give the material an "orange peel" (work the handle(s) from different angles on the wire wheel for best results), and then finish with the single light coat of Tru-Oil. DON'T use a heavy gauge, or very stiff wire wheel! It will literally rip gouges in the micarta/G10. As long as you are dealing with colored micarta or G10, this wheel from HF works well..... https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-crimped-brass-wire-wheel-93467.html
DO NOT USE ANY WIRE WHEEL ON TAN, WHITE, OR VERY LIGHT COLORS.....IF YOU DO, THE COLOR OF THE BRASS WIRE WILL TRANSFER.
Ed, thanks that's really helpful. I'm going to do this technique on a knife that's in progress.Bob: Sometime I blast the exposed tang, and other times I will mask it off with the blue masking/painter's tape, and use a razor to trim it. Here's a blue/black G10 handle done it the manner I spoke of...
and here's one of my EBKs.....which all get the bead blast/Tru-Oil finish with red/black G10 handles.....
The reason I like it so much, is the longevity. I've had folks who have carried a knife daily with these handles, for a decade, and aside from a scratch here and there, the handle look as good as the day I shipped the knives.