Equipment info

Moe56

Active Member
Just getting started as a small time hobbiest. What’s a good starting point for a sander ( pls be specific) it probably won’t be upgraded. Knife steel-hot or cold rolled, starting point 1080 ect. Not wanting to just stock removal but using a forge. 3/16 or 1/4 inch? I’ve got a forge, hammer, tongs and 88# anvil. Any other advice to start. Trying to stay under $1000.00. I’m 66 in ok health, so I won’t be burning up the knife world, but I want to be good enough to give to family and friends something personal. Sorry for the long post!
 
Just getting started as a small time hobbiest. What’s a good starting point for a sander ( pls be specific) it probably won’t be upgraded. Knife steel-hot or cold rolled, starting point 1080 ect. Not wanting to just stock removal but using a forge. 3/16 or 1/4 inch? I’ve got a forge, hammer, tongs and 88# anvil. Any other advice to start. Trying to stay under $1000.00. I’m 66 in ok health, so I won’t be burning up the knife world, but I want to be good enough to give to family and friends something personal. Sorry for the long post!

If you really never plan to upgrade I'd say you really need to start with a 2x72 grinder with variable speed. It will make the experience so much better and help keep the frustration down.

Being specific is kind of hard because everyone has their own goals. Some people also have better skills at assembling something from a kit. I wanted something ready to go right out of the box so I spent more money.

For me it would take every penny of $1000 and more to get a grinder I would be happy with. I know this from trial and error and multiple purchases.
 
If you really never plan to upgrade I'd say you really need to start with a 2x72 grinder with variable speed. It will make the experience so much better and help keep the frustration down.

Being specific is kind of hard because everyone has their own goals. Some people also have better skills at assembling something from a kit. I wanted something ready to go right out of the box so I spent more money.

For me it would take every penny of $1000 and more to get a grinder I would be happy with. I know this from trial and error and multiple purchases.
Thanks for the info.
 
Welcome aboard! I would agree with CD. A 2x72 grinder is going to be your most used piece of equipment. I built mine for about$700.00. But that was over a period of time. If I were starting from scratch again I would purchase a commercial unit. You'll be up and running much faster.

If you can go a bit over your $1000.00 there are a number of nice 2X72 's in the 1200-1500 range. Also check out some of the offerings on USAKnifemaker. He has frames and kits that might suit as well.
 
Welcome aboard! I would agree with CD. A 2x72 grinder is going to be your most used piece of equipment. I built mine for about$700.00. But that was over a period of time. If I were starting from scratch again I would purchase a commercial unit. You'll be up and running much faster.

If you can go a bit over your $1000.00 there are a number of nice 2X72 's in the 1200-1500 range. Also check out some of the offerings on USAKnifemaker. He has frames and kits that might suit as well.
Thanks
 
You're likely not going to find a "turn key" grinder for $1000. You could certainly build one within that budget, though it may take some careful shopping/sourcing of parts.

IIRC, the Revolution grinder kit sold by Brian House (housework.us) averages about $1k, though it does require some basic machining and a few welds. The NWGS may also be an option. BossDog sells plans at USAKnifeMaker.com.
 
You're likely not going to find a "turn key" grinder for $1000. You could certainly build one within that budget, though it may take some careful shopping/sourcing of parts.

IIRC, the Revolution grinder kit sold by Brian House (housework.us) averages about $1k, though it does require some basic machining and a few welds. The NWGS may also be an option. BossDog sells plans at USAKnifeMaker.com.
 
I agree with everyone else, if your wanting to get a grinder and end it with one machine get a 2x72.
even besides knifemaking you can use it for all kinds of grinding steel for projects, they have the brute force and power to get things done,
on the other hand I impressed my wife one day for a few seconds when I sharpened a pencil on mine. she said something I didn't hear and I just told her, hey you'll never see anybody else ever do that.
seriously though, over the years my machine has seen a lot more than just knife steel, they power on and don't bog down.

They also hold their value, if in a few years down the road you want to sell it your more than likely to get almost what you paid for it.
 
You can save a pack of money by getting a 2X72 grinder w/o the variable speed motor. A stout 2 HP single speed unit will do the work for years while you look for or build the variable speed.
 
A bar of 1084 is cheap and a good starting point for steel, if you are going to forge it, 1/4” is fine. You can always pound it thinner. Spend the rest of your money on some files and automotive sandpaper. A grinder is nice to have but will easily eat up your whole budget. There is nothing you can do with a grinder that you can’t do with a file, it will just take longer.
 
While a single speed grinder is just fine for heavy grinding with 36 to 60 grit belts, it's not so good when you get to the 120 to 400 grit belts. There you need to slow down to 1,000 SFPM or so. By far the best "bang for buck" is an IronHorse 2ph 3 ph motor ($200 range shipped), and a Chinese VFD for $80 or so. Put filters over the VFD air inlets and it will last years for hobby use. In the past one of the best grinders around is the Reeder and could be put together for $1K or so, but I see they've went up $200 or so on the bare frame. Even then for $1200 or so you can have a great grinder with variable speed. BUT - 5 yrs down the road you would be able to sell that grinder for what you've got invested.
 
While a single speed grinder is just fine for heavy grinding with 36 to 60 grit belts, it's not so good when you get to the 120 to 400 grit belts. There you need to slow down to 1,000 SFPM or so. By far the best "bang for buck" is an IronHorse 2ph 3 ph motor ($200 range shipped), and a Chinese VFD for $80 or so. Put filters over the VFD air inlets and it will last years for hobby use. In the past one of the best grinders around is the Reeder and could be put together for $1K or so, but I see they've went up $200 or so on the bare frame. Even then for $1200 or so you can have a great grinder with variable speed. BUT - 5 yrs down the road you would be able to sell that grinder for what you've got invested.
Motors are getting increasingly difficult to find these days... Ironhorse motors aren't getting back in stock at least until the end of April when I checked the other day
 
A bar of 1084 is cheap and a good starting point for steel, if you are going to forge it, 1/4” is fine. You can always pound it thinner. Spend the rest of your money on some files and automotive sandpaper. A grinder is nice to have but will easily eat up your whole budget. There is nothing you can do with a grinder that you can’t do with a file, it will just take longer.
Truth right here
 
Motors are getting increasingly difficult to find these days... Ironhorse motors aren't getting back in stock at least until the end of April when I checked the other day
I hadn't checked on motors in a good while. I see what you're talking about, should be back in stock 4-20-22 (earliest) or so. WOW!!! The 2hp 3ph 1800 rpm is showing $300!!! Hasn't been that long since it was $200 or so. The 3600 rpm is showing $220, and the 3600 rpm is what I mostly use with VFD.
 
Motors are getting increasingly difficult to find these days... Ironhorse motors aren't getting back in stock at least until the end of April when I checked the other day
There are similar brands (very likely made in the same factory) on eBay all the time for comparable prices. They're definitely not as "cheap" as they used to be, but nothing is.
I'd also keep an eye out on the surplus/used market too. Granted, a 2hp, 3 phase, 56C frame motor is fairly specific, but they do pop up from time to time.
 
There are similar brands (very likely made in the same factory) on eBay all the time for comparable prices. They're definitely not as "cheap" as they used to be, but nothing is.
I'd also keep an eye out on the surplus/used market too. Granted, a 2hp, 3 phase, 56C frame motor is fairly specific, but they do pop up from time to time.
Exactly right! I've gotten some good deals on motors on ebay!
 
You use 3 phase Josh!? Shit man you're going to make me spend more money here to go 480 eh? :p

Nobody mentioned any companies. I'd recommend OMG but its not as cheap. I have a KMG and it's just stupidly overkill 0.5" thick 1018/A36.
 
You use 3 phase Josh!? Shit man you're going to make me spend more money here to go 480 eh? :p

Nobody mentioned any companies. I'd recommend OMG but its not as cheap. I have a KMG and it's just stupidly overkill 0.5" thick 1018/A36.
Variable speed via a VFD (variable frequency drive) requires a 3 phase motor. The VFD (at least the VFDs we are referring to) uses standard single phase voltage for the input, but outputs a "simulated" 3 phase voltage to drive the motor (220VAC, not 480VAC)
 
Variable speed via a VFD (variable frequency drive) requires a 3 phase motor. The VFD (at least the VFDs we are referring to) uses standard single phase voltage for the input, but outputs a "simulated" 3 phase voltage to drive the motor (220VAC, not 480VAC)
Yup different VFDs mines single to single 220. (Edit: I think? I'd have to take it apart) huh. Apologies for the incorrect information, I didn't know they did that! Thank you for correcting me. Truthfully, not sarcasm. When I'm wrong I admit it.
 
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