Epoxy Resin

Fross

Well-Known Member
Guys,
This is for all you mykarta making guys. Im wondering if anyone has tried this epoxy resin for anything or if you have a brand you use that I could try, shoot, Im open for ideas. They have several videos on it and after doing the math(as hard as that is for me,lol) I could use this stuff at almost a third of the cost of the bondo fiberglass stuff for making my mykarta and it is clear(opposed to that ugly yellow tint).
 
You don't want a casting resin. A casting resin is not designed for a lay up like a micarta handle. It is designed for encapsulating and a bubble free void finish, while a laminating resin will be designed for maximum layer adhesion.

Have you checked out other sources? www.jgreer.com is one of my favorite. He has a very good product for the money, and it dries water clear. The owner answers the phone and is very helpful. USComposites.com also offers epoxy resins, but I don't think they beat jgreer's price.
 
You don't want a casting resin. A casting resin is not designed for a lay up like a micarta handle. It is designed for encapsulating and a bubble free void finish, while a laminating resin will be designed for maximum layer adhesion.

Have you checked out other sources? www.jgreer.com is one of my favorite. He has a very good product for the money, and it dries water clear. The owner answers the phone and is very helpful. USComposites.com also offers epoxy resins, but I don't think they beat jgreer's price.

Awesome, that is almost the same price(actually a little cheaper). I dont know much about epoxies but this is def a good price from what I have seen. Thanks a lot for your help.
 
If you want cheap you don't want what we have been using. Mike Carter and I have been using West System but it is pricey. There are so many out there but the conclusion we came to is if it's out there holding boats together in the water and sun it will work for a knife handle.

I have tested it in solvents and oils. I've had pieces in the dash of my truck under the direct sun for long periods testing for yellowing. It's been run through the dishwasher and then in the freezer and pounded on while hot and while freezing cold. The stuff is tough as nails.

Destruction test on a scrap piece.
http://www.fendleyknives.com/LM105_tough.htm
 
I've built a few strip canoes over the years and have used both West Systems and System Three epoxies with great results both.

One product I'm interested in is System Three's "G2" epoxy....
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/G-2-c30.htm

"G-2 is an epoxy glue for oily, acidic hardwoods like teak and other precious tropical woods. Use it for gluing oak and cedar, as well as other materials that are difficult to bond. G-2 was developed primarily for waterproof bonding of rot-resistant woods used in fine yacht joinery."
 
West System is really good stuff. I was active in home built airplanes awhile back. West System was hands down the favorite of the composite builders because it was considered the best stuff out. I've used myself. I once filled up a paper cup with two metered shots and the exothermic reaction was so hot it scorched the top of my work bench.
 
I still work west system, I've mainly used the 105 resin with the 205 hardener with the high density filler when I was working on the sailboat. It is an excellent product and even a numb nut like me can figure it out. The only limitation to it is it needs to be mixed in out of the cold. The 205 or fast hardener can be mixed as cold as about 40-45F, but not recommended or it won't setup efficiently. If you go to Jamestown Distributors I recommend them, they are very knowledgeable as well.

Jeff
 
Mike and I learned the hard way about the heat. Last year we made a batch when the weather was warm and humid. We normally do it out in my welding and tractor shop because the big welding table works great for us. Trouble is that metal building heats up in the summer sun and we doddled around getting going that morning. By the time we got a piece layered up and I started twisting it was so hot I couldn't hold it. We had to move that operation into the A/C shop. The temps make a HUGE difference and we were even using the slow 206 hardener. Lesson learned:eek:
 
Thanks guys, this really helps out a lot, that destruction test really brings it to light. The West Systems is a little steep but still good info and hopefully when my pocket book gets a little thicker, Ill get some to try. Im still looking around though for something to try for now, from the looks of that destruction test about any decent epoxy will outlast the commercial stuff, lol, if anyone else has experience with another brand, lemme know...
 
I made this denum stock with that exact resin. If you contact him with your needs, he sells other formulas. I contacted him after I made this stock, and he had something better. Having said that, it was very nice to work with. It is very strong, and comes up with a nice shine. I wouldn't be afraid to use it again.
stock004.jpg

It still has a few scratches, but they will come out with a little more work.
 
Another option would be to see if there is a Composites One location near you. They are generally an industry supplier, but sometimes sell to to individuals in 5 gallon pails but generally are only interested if you want to buy 500 gallons or more. They carry everything from swing resin used in making countertops such as cultured marble to regular old poly resin.

West systems is decent enough stuff, but their prices are ridiculous. Remember that there are really only about four major manufacturers of resins. Reichold is one, and I can't remember the others, so basically the only difference your getting is in the label on the can.

If your are worried about UV degradation, then you would need to specifically ask for a component that has UV inhibitors in the matrix, Or maybe surfboard resin might get you further in a google search.

If you do go with West systems you will need their 207 hardner, It has UV protection built in, and is considered their "all weather" component. Any other of the hardners will turn yellow over time as the epoxy degrades, but 207 resists the most.
 
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