Edge thickness

KCorn

KCorn

Well-Known Member
I recently finished a 5" blade made of 1084. It is a simple drop point hunter with G10 handle scales. I'm ready to sharpen it and put my logo on it. My question is this; how thick do you guys typically leave the edge just prior to sharpening a knife of this size? Thanks for the help!
 
.020 is a nice place to start *****with some caveats.
Let's assume you're in the 1/8" to 3/16" range on blade thickness.
Blade width and spine thickness come into play. Also flat or hollow grinds make a difference too. Then you have the big one....convex or flat secondary bevel. Over the years I've found that most users have no clue on sharpening a convex edge, so I stoped using it. If you do use one, I'd go down to .015, they either roll the edge (angle too high) or waste their time trying to sharpen the hump of the convex (angle too low). You can tell right away fom looking at the blade after their attempts.

Personally I do more hollow grinds and bring just about everything down to .015. This dispells the age old gripe that hollow grinds have no slicing ability. I also sharpen on a 1 x 42 grinder running in reverse on a flat platen. This achieves a secondary bevel that anyone can touch up and slices like all get out. A couple swipes on a hard Arkansas stone lines up the edge.

Probably more than you wanted to know.

Rudy
 
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It depends on the main use of the knife. For a knife that will basically see only hair, hide, & flesh I go down to approx. .010". On general use knives .015". On knives that will be busting rib cages, pelvic bones, etc. .020".
 
I agree... for most uses, .010 to .020 is typically adequate.

A little thicker for choppers...

Just remember, the thicker the primary, the harder it is to sharpen the secondary.

Now, of course, we haven't even factored sharpening angle into this discussion yet, and that may affect how thick/thin you want to go as well.
 
I'd also go about .015 on a knife this size or even a little less. .010 will be great for a hunter if you've got your heat treat nailed.

Err on the side of too thin IMHO. It's pretty easy to thicken up by taking a smidge off the edge.

Thinning it basically requires a regrind of the entire bevel.

-Josh
 
In flat grinding; No matter how thin the bevel is ground at the edge; if an angle of 24 degrees inclusive, is ground on the secondary or edge bevel, the blades sharpness will be the same; just the height of the secondary grind will be different. The thicker the stock , the higher the secondary grind shoulders; what ever the chosen angle.
Now they wont cut or slice the same; the thinner the stock used and the more acute the bevel angle, the better the blade will cut. The angles chosen to grind the bevels are dictated by the height of the blade and the thickness of the stock. When considering how you want the blade to cut; all the above must be taken into consideration. Stock thickness, blade height, bevel angle and secondary bevel angle. If your convex grinding all this goes out the window.
 
Great replies guys! Lots to consider here! I'm at about .015 at the edge right now. It is a flat ground blade. It will actually be my first to sharpen with the wicked edge. I have always used my KMG to sharpen free handed in the past. It's made out of Aldo's 1084 and the first compleated 1084 I've done. Lot of firsts here for me and just trying to get it right. Thanks for the replies. Any other opinions would be great. Thanks!
 
I have a KMG style platen, and usually establish my edge by tilting the platen forward 15 degress (I use an inclinometer with a magnetic base for this) and then holding my knife at 90 degrees on the work rest and sharpening. I'll then polish the final edge on a paper wheel sharpener. In your case, you would finish the edge on the WE.

This may be a bit faster for you than establishing the entire edge with the WE system.
 
I agree there AR; a ceramic 120 will establish the secondary bevel in just a few passes, using a 2x72 belt on creep speed. I go 120 220 400 600 and then the cardboard wheel. Scary sharp in 10 minutes. I use a Bubble Jig to reference the desired angle.
 
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