edge jigs. to make or to buy?

malignity

Well-Known Member
I apologize for posting this, as I am almost certain it has probably been asked before. Unfortunately the term 'jig' is either too common or too short to search the forum for, and thus I'm forced to ask rather than simply search and learn.

What do your edge cutting jigs look like? Have most of you made your own, or are you all using the bubble jig? I've got a magnetic protractor with level on it, but it's not nearly as compact as the bubble jig.

My buddy on the other hand who is a 'retired' knife maker, only used a block of hardwood cut at an angle. I made a small jig using angle iron, and drilled a hole slightly bigger than a bolt going through the bottom. I then welded a nut to the hole, then threaded the bolt through the nut, which elevates and 'tips' the angle iron at a slight angle, and it worked pretty good as a semi-decent guide, but I'm not sold this is the best way.

I imagine the bubble jig is something I would highly benefit from in the future, however since I haven't made enough knives to sell yet etc, I am limited to either buying a jig or buying a forge, and working with pre-hardened steel is such a pain.
 
Are you talking about sharpening or grinding the primary bevels on your blade? For grinding, the jig you described is probably the most common with people that use jigs. I had a similar variation, but tilted my work rest to achieve the angle, not the jig. I didn't like having one point of contact on the bottom of the jig. I made the first few knives with a jig, but slowly moved away from it. I think the advice you'll get the most from guys on here is to stop using the jig and work on freehand grinding. I see advantages to both ways, but eventually you'll want to be able to grind freehand, it has more freedom and flexibility than a jig. But, personally, I don't think it matters which way you do it, the end result is what sells, the average customer isn't going to have a clue how you got there.

As for sharpening jigs, I rough in my secondary bevel on the grinder, then switch to a Lansky jig sharpening system to finish up. But, again, a lot of guys on here even do all their sharpening freehand too.
 
I started with a homemade one. Then got the Bubble Jig. It helped me go free hand.

I've loaned it to a friend to try.

It's also good for grinding sweges.

I highly recommend the Bubble Jig to start with.

You can build a forge a lot easier than trying to duplicate a jig similar to it.
 
Last edited:
I was looking for a jig to essentially grind my initial bevels. My concern was also about the one point of contact being on my grinding plate with the screw tilted angle iron also. I tend to do a lot of long flat grinds, and it's a bit nerve racking having my hand that close to my sander while I'm trying to achieve that perfect grind. Also, I noticed with my last one, even using the jig, they still aren't perfect. My buddy wants me to make him a kukri next, so I'm already anticipating the nightmares from it.

Sounds like either free handing them or getting a bubble jig is the way to go. Maybe I just need a better way to hold onto my knives while free handing.
 
My first 30 knives or so I was forever grinding the edge of my knuckle off. Not deep, but I always had bright red spots along the tops of my index fingers. I still grind the corners of my index fingernails off. I'm amazed at how a person's brain can manage to work in such tight proximity- but your brain does learn. I do a lot of kitchen knives and a 2inch tall full height grind on a blade that is super thin to begin with... well it's crazy to think about it but that little ledge of spine sitting along my fingers feels solid and natural now.

Oddly, the cuts I get now are from pulling the spine along my support finger. The belt grinds a micro serration along the spine, and dragging that ragged edge across my support finger over and over saws little cuts into my finger. I've tried wearing gloves but they keep hitting the belt.

RhinoSkins are a great product if you want some protection for your fingers. Laurence sells them on his site. He's all over the place here- look for Rhino Knives. He's super to deal with and he has been a huge help to me whenever I have needed help learning something. He is a wealth of knowledge.
 
Likely part of my issue is simply just needing to learn, practice, read up, and do.

I'm not using a slack belt sander like most, just a harbor freight 4x36" with added aluminum push plate behind to raise the belt off the table, and a shelf I welded together to make a sanding table.

My buddy who is a retired knife maker insists for stock removal, I want the coarsest grit I can find, but my concern there is that I'm going to be removing too much too fast, and will have a lot of bouncing, etc.

I don't know. I have a bazillion questions, and just need to take a few hours and read up. I learn best by watching and doing, so maybe I need to see what youtube has to offer also.
 
I'm sure it can be done, but I've got one of those HF belt sanders too, but I only use it for woodworking and it kind of stinks even at that. I don't even want to think about grinding a knife on it. You'll be going uphill with that tool for sure, not saying it can't be done, but it won't be fun. Even one of the little 1"x ? sanders HF makes would be easier, I've seen some pretty good knives made on a 1" sander. I made my first knife with an angle grinder and a file, never even considered that 4x36 sitting over there.
 
My dad's got an old 1" dremel belt sander that's older than I am (I'm 32) but it seems the belt flaps around quite a bit. I don't know if there's not proper tension on the belt or what.

He said I could have it if I want it. I tried it once and it seemed super under powered, but maybe I can make it work. I'm not opposed to building a 2x72 sander though. I've got a 3/4 hp, 3150rpm motor just sitting around waiting to be put to work.
 
It's amazing what can be done with a good vise and files. It is slow going, so think about reasonable sized blades. While it may be slow, the amount of control and the final quality will be exponentially better with files than using a sloppy belt grinder. If you really need to hog off a lot of metal, I suggest going the David Boye route and using a grinding wheel for rough shaping and then go to the files. His book is available on Amazon and it's a great book.

In the beginning, speed is not your friend.
 
I'm learning that. I'm also learning that coarse grit sandpaper isn't either. LOL

When I first decided I wanted to try my hand at knife making, my initial thought was that I wanted to do EVERYTHING hand worked. Zero sanders, grinders, etc. Hacksaw, files, sandpaper, just to say I can do it. I particularly like to whittle and do hand carved woodwork, so I figured it'd be only fitting for my style.

Then reality set in. LOL

I had thought about hand filing in my bevels, and may still consider that. My vice kind of sucks, but it's what I've got. The other issue is that I tend to want to go toward complex designs, not simple and easy stuff. My last one, I couldn't find a good way to do it in the vice, so I took my kydex press clamps (picture big irwin 600lb clamps) and clamped it to my drill press table and used the file like a draw shave. It worked pretty well, but it'd be nice to be able to set up a guide of some sort so every 'draw' is the same angle. I did get a nice convex edge though on the knife I was making.

I'm only a few knives in, but it's truly a blast, and it's something I hope to stick with years to come.
 
Draw filing is an excellent technique.

Getting something flat is a deceptively difficult skill. Especially when that flat plane curves but must remain flat and must keep approximately the same angle.

If you learn to draw file a basic knife with a full flat bevel, you will have developed the skills that will take you very far in knifemaking.

I can only speak for myself, but filing is what taught me how to grind on a belt grinder. When I started, I was fortunate in that I had the money for a 2x72 and I had enough electrical experience to make it variable speed. So I started out with what many would consider the holy grail for grinding.

Guess what? My grinds sucked. I ended up draw filing my knives and finishing with sandpaper. I was really disappointed and angry. I discovered that fancy grinders aren't magical and they don't do anything files can't do- it just allows you to go faster. Well, take it from me. Faster only matters if you know what you are doing, and I didn't.

Filing taught me how a grind really works. It taught me how to blend various angles into a smooth curve. Filing is what made the light bulb come on for me.

When I went back to the grinder everything made a lot more sense and I was way more deliberate and thoughtful about what I was doing.

Would I want to use files for a lot of knives? No. You aren't kidding when you say it's a lot of work. But there is value is doing a few with files.

Save up for the grinder you really want. Buy once, cry once.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
What are your thoughts on building one? I know it won't have the bells and whistles, but to start? I'm a homesteader, and VERY rarely buy ANYTHING, but am king of recycling. To top it off, my dad is a machinist, so he can turn wheels and such for me on a lathe.

I've seen plans for no weld grinder designs, all that stuff. It's not that I don't want to go out and spend $1500 for an elaborate setup, its that the money simply doesn't exist.

I can weld fairly well, etc.

Maybe if I can make and sell a few knives I can turn that money into a quality grinder.
 
Hey, just posted a suggestion in another thread you were in about filing jigs, check that out. But, tons of us built our own 2x72's. Its not all that hard, there are tons of plans floating around, both free and pay. If you take your time and are a good scrounger, you can get it done pretty cheap. I did mine for like $300-$400 (I'm a good scrounger) and it looks and works great. Now that I've used it for a while though, there are a couple things I wish were a little different, so I'm about to build another. Go for it.
 
08525e8af19aac8c260dba7206ae484c.jpg
b6fba622dd3048ff1eee9610d4a49204.jpg


Made with the harbor freight 4 by 36 grinder. You make what you have work.
Now.....tomorrow I'm going to pick up my KMG. But for the past year, my old grinder did just fine. I started with 36 grit and would go up to 400. Belts are cheap. Sandpaperusa.com
I also made a few jigs out of angle iron. White bone knives has some decent how to videos on you tube. I'm slowly starting to hand grind and I'm glad I started with my jigs. If you want to ask a bazillion questions, pm me, I'll give you my number and we can talk.
 
You sir, have given me some hope! Fred Rowe also helped me with some pointers on my harbor freight grinder. As you know, the main issue with the grinder is that the belt lays flat on the table, and it needs to be lifted. I used a piece of polished aluminum to achieve that. I also made a more sturdy sanding shelf from bed frames and a piece of bar stock that bolts right onto the sander in 2 locations.

Did you speed your sander up at all with a smaller diameter drive wheel? It's something I've considered doing.

I've sense removed the back and bottom completely making it a gigantic dust monster, but I'd much prefer to be able to do 10 second belt changes than 10 minute belt changes if needed.

I'm curious to know what, if any mods you've made with yours.

By the way, this goes without saying, but awesome knives. Is that homemade micarta?
 
You sir, have given me some hope! Fred Rowe also helped me with some pointers on my harbor freight grinder. As you know, the main issue with the grinder is that the belt lays flat on the table, and it needs to be lifted. I used a piece of polished aluminum to achieve that. I also made a more sturdy sanding shelf from bed frames and a piece of bar stock that bolts right onto the sander in 2 locations.

Did you speed your sander up at all with a smaller diameter drive wheel? It's something I've considered doing.

I've sense removed the back and bottom completely making it a gigantic dust monster, but I'd much prefer to be able to do 10 second belt changes than 10 minute belt changes if needed.

I'm curious to know what, if any mods you've made with yours.

By the way, this goes without saying, but awesome knives. Is that homemade micarta?
I purchased the micarta.
And I'll just snap a photo of what I've done to chop apart my hf grinder. I hacked it up pretty darn good.
 
Back
Top