Drilling Mamouth Tusk Scales

wmhammond

wmhammond

Well-Known Member
Hello friends. I am looking for some advice drilling Mamouth Tusk Scales. I am working on my first frame handle knife and it will have Mamouth Tusk Scales. Because of the configuration of the knife I have no option but to drill the pin holes from the inside of the tusk out toward the polished surface of the scales and I am worring about chipping that surface as the drill bit emerges from the scale. Is there any secret to performing this operation so that chip outs do not occur. thanks for any assistance.

Wallace
 
Tape for sure.
A technique used for drilling MOP might help.
Use a hard plate to back up the exit hole. When your drill tip hits the hard plate and barely emerges stop, flip it and use the very small hole from the barely emerging drill tip as a locating hole to finish the hole from the outside. Way less chip out. I’d also harden it with super glue.
 
I tape it up then clamp in a jig I made for drilling scales,next I take the intended drill bit for the size pin and chuck it up and line it up with the hole in the tang,next without moving the jig i raise the quill and remove the drill and replace it with a small 1/16 drill. I then drill the hole taking great care and going slow.Then after doing all holes this way I take the scales flip them( without the knife) and use the 1/16 drill bit to line up the hole ,carefully change bits without disturbing the jig and drill my larger holes .It takes a bit of the time and you dont want to rush but I've never had a piece of ivory or any other fragile or chippy material blow out doing it this way.
 
AkWildman said:
Click to expand...

Probably the best tips I have ever had in knife making, I never knew about those drill bit sizes etc. .....oh the days I have struggled and cursed when drilling pins only to spend ages sanding the pins down in a drill chuck in order they fit. :mad:

I also have one of those clamps which I made a while back after getting caught out drilling a blade that grabbed, I also have pins in my drill bed as an additional backup. It just isn't worth breaking or losing a finger for such an easy fix, nice touch with the belt also, I shall do that too.

Many thanks :)

Edit.... Just bought the drills :)
 
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Wildman who are you buying those bits through that you were speaking of in your video. I noticed the American flag on the pack but not sure who the company was? Also do you have a chart detailing the slightly oversize from the normal size bit??
 
C Craft said:
Wildman who are you buying those bits through that you were speaking of in your video. I noticed the American flag on the pack but not sure who the company was? Also do you have a chart detailing the slightly oversize from the normal size bit??
Click to expand...
I found them on the USAKnifemaker site after watching the video and had the same Q. https://usaknifemaker.com/shop-cate...lades-c-98/drill-bits-drill-sets-c-98-38.html

Helpful chart to print out there too: https://usaknifemaker.com/decimal-equivalents-chart-print-out-and-hang-in-your-shop.html
 
Wildman did a good job. Its surprising how many don't know the drill sizes. Drills are made in 4 sizes.

Fraction,
Metric,
Letter,
Number,

Between the 4 sizes you can hit almost any size you want. Within reason. It should not be a problem as a knife maker. The drills are available almost anywhere. Online go for Granger, MSC. Locally go for ACE, Fleet Farm, Harbor Fright. They come in High Speed Steel, Cobalt, Carbide. For us Cobalt is GOOD! They also come in different flute styles. Right hand twist, left hand twist and straight flute. Straight flute drills are good for drill reaming. The shortest flute you can use is best. That means STUB. The clamps on the drill fixture in many different styles can be gotten at Granger or MSC. Wildman is right about clamping your work. I have seen to many people injury themselves. Do you like your body parts??

PS: If you really want that hole size to be there. Ream it.
 
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