drill bits for tang holes

[J. Doyle]

Buy good quality cobalt bits (by far most important) and make sure the steel is in an acceptable internal condition (2nd most important).

I don't worry about much else. I've got 8 drill presses set from anywhere from 250 rpm to 2100 rpm and good cobalt bits of any size will drill through about any steel at any speed.

I drill dozens and dozens of holes per bit.

 

[victoroni]

my source for cobalt bits is CML supply the brand is "topline" bits are good for dozens and dozens of holes in high carbon - haven't used on stainless ? use a lubricant ( i just use 3in1 oil )

 

[scott.livesey]

Have used both Viking and Norseman drill bits and am happy with both. I have a tabletop skil drillpress and run it at the slowest speed. did all the math and it is just a little bit faster than uddeholm recommends for Arne, otherwise called O1. https://www.uddeholm.com/files/PB_Uddeholm_arne_english.pdf figured this would be ok for basic carbon steels. Uddeholm is one of the few steel makers that list machining instructions in their data sheet.
as said above, all use lube or cutting fluid. mineral oil works fine. lastly, take your time. a good M35 or M42 drill bit should last for at least 100 holes.

 

[whisperer]

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Above is a link to bits on MMC, not posting an ad for them….

I have a few of these in my most used sizes and they are bad-ass. They will drill through pretty hard stock. That being said, file check your tang. Seems like the same problem we have all had trying to drill hardened steel with Home Depot drill bits.

 

[Edwardshandmadeknives]

I’ve been using run-of-the-mill cobalt bots for years, and drill many many holes in stainless steel with just one. I’m guessing your steel is hardened, either work hardened or some other way. Even a HSS bit should drill 1095 easily

 

[tkroenlein]

*still using the same #11 bit.

Not a joke.

 

[John Wilson]

*still using the same #11 bit.

Not a joke.

I believe you. About a week ago I was using my go-to "F" drill bit. I tried to remember when I bought it and I couldn't. It lives in my drill press. I replaced the previous one some time ago because it got somewhat banana shaped over time because I turn it slow and use a whole lot of down force. (It's my hogging bit so accuracy was not even a consideration.) Between BoeLube (thanks John Doyle!) and a Drill Doctor- my bits last a long long time.

 

[tkroenlein]

I use the stick lube from McMaster Carr. It was $11 for a standard grease tube sized stick. It's somewhat waxy and liquifies with a little heat and solidifies pretty quick when you back off the pressure so it sticks on awhile. Works well on bandsaw blades too. I usually don't lube on thin stock.

 

[John Wilson]

I use the stick lube from McMaster Carr. It was $11 for a standard grease tube sized stick. It's somewhat waxy and liquifies with a little heat and solidifies pretty quick when you back off the pressure so it sticks on awhile. Works well on bandsaw blades too. I usually don't lube on thin stock.

i took your advice and got that stick lubr for my bandsaw. What a difference! So much better than squirting oil on everything and all the mess that comes with that. My little tube of Boelube has lasted forever but when it runs out i’ll use the stick lube for drilling too. That’s really good stuff.

 

[thomster]

Having read the comments, I have a set of Viking bits now, but the last thing to check was my stock (1095) I don't think it was sufficiently annealed. With the next piece of 1095 (from the same batch) I used, I put it into my little forge and cooled it down as slow as I could, That made it FAR easier to work with going forward.
Thanks for the advice!

 

[MTBob]

FWIW, any of my HSS drill bits will cut through pre-heat treated high carbon steel knife steel. My drill bits are nothing special, just what's called HSS "Jobber" bits. Some of the leading problems with drill bit performance are a incorrectly sharpened cutting edge, too fast RPM, and/or lack of lubricant. While I received a Drill Doctor as a gift, I rarely use it to sharpen drill bits.
I've learned to quickly sharpen drills by hand using my 2x72 with a 220 belt (start with a120 if really dull). Once you understand the required geometry of the drill's cutting edge, sharpening is simple. Just be aware of the need for a clean cutting edge that has sufficient relief to keep the cutting edge in contact with the work - and cutting edges that are equally spaced from the center of the drill.
Cutting stainless is another matter. Unless you use a constant and firm pressure with ample oil, SS will work harden and quickly overheat the drill bit. The instant cutting stops, the steel has likely work hardened and the drill is ready for resharpening.
If you have a belt grinder - and I assume nearly all knife makers have one - then learn how to grind your drill bits. Belt grinders are mush easier to use to sharpen drill bits than bench grinding wheels since the flat platen is easier to achieve the required grind angles.
Google "sharpen drill bit by hand" and you'll find a bunch of videos that demonstrate the process.

 

[Smallshop]

Drill bits are relatively cheap. Black oxide last a bit longer than uncoated...and not as long as TiN-coated.

Buy them as SHORT as possible and make sure they are SPLIT POINT. A standard drill has a fairly fat web and that creates heat. Short drills are stiffer and with a split point you do not even need to center drill. A jobber drill is the worst possible combo of length and web thickness. Almost all M42 (cobalt) drills will come with a split point and reasonably short....just a wee bit pricier.

you can thin the web of a standard drill on a pedestal grinder with a sharp corner on the wheel with great results. It won't be as good as a split point but better than a jobber. As a drill gets worn and shortened from use the web gets fatter and fatter as they are tapered to make the drill strong. So a cut or worn drill will always benefit from thinning the web. gotta do the same grind on each side to keep the point on center...

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[BossDog]

some stuff on drills

1. Use Jobber length, these are shorter than typical drills. This gives you less flex.
2. drills come in a variety of points, ie: 118, 135 degrees, single, split point. For metal use a 135 degree jobber split point. Less walking of the point, less run out from a stiffer (shorter) drill, more accurate start with the split point. 118 degree drills are for non-metal materials.
3. coatings will help with galling and metal sticking but for what we do as knife makers, it won't matter *that much* but still, they do help and they do prolong drill life. The coatings on the cheap import drills, technically are what they say, in use these super thin coatings on cheap drills do not last. More expensive drills will have better quality coatings. Personally, I don't use coated drills for hand drilling but I will use coated drills in my CNC mill.
4. Cobalt or M4 drills, often marketed as the same thing or interchangeably, last longer than HSS and will drill (slightly) harder steel. HSS drills are the equivalent of AO belts compared to ceramic. if that tells you anything.
5. Even a cheap drill can work well if you use the right speed and pressure (feed). You need to adjust your speed to match the material and diameter of the drill.
6. Use some kind of lube, even plain old motor oil - something. I use Tapamatic Tappnig wax. I keep it in a cup next to my drill presses and jam the drill into it before every operation.
7. Too many people don't press hard enough when drilling. If you drill too light, you just heat the drill tip and dull it. Different materials produce different types of chips/swarf. Basically you want a steady chip coming off your drill.
8. When drilling and you get a long chip, lift slight to break the chip and then back to drilling. Basically, this is lifting for 1/2 a second and then back to it. Don't get a big long, razer sharp chip swinging all over the place.
9. The drill press hurts more people in the shop than any other tool. It won't kill you like the buffer but it will give you more stitches. Never hand hold anything larger than a 3/16" drill. Have a stop to prevent helicopter blades. I wish I had a nickel for every sliced open hand I have seen from a helicopter blade cut.

 

[fitzo]

I personally prefer the short screw-machine length drills to the jobber length.

I have a Darex drill sharpener that preceded Drill Doctors a bit. It's a toolroom quality tool and I sharpen 1/4" and up. For smaller drills (1/16,5/64,3/32,1/8) I buy cheap, use for 1 or three holes and then toss. I found out about BoeLube here and it's nice stuff.

 

[MTBob]

some stuff on drills

1. Use Jobber length, these are shorter than typical drills. This gives you less flex.
2. drills come in a variety of points, ie: 118, 135 degrees, single, split point. For metal use a 135 degree jobber split point. Less walking of the point, less run out from a stiffer (shorter) drill, more accurate start with the split point. 118 degree drills are for non-metal materials.
3. coatings will help with galling and metal sticking but for what we do as knife makers, it won't matter *that much* but still, they do help and they do prolong drill life. The coatings on the cheap import drills, technically are what they say, in use these super thin coatings on cheap drills do not last. More expensive drills will have better quality coatings. Personally, I don't use coated drills for hand drilling but I will use coated drills in my CNC mill.
4. Cobalt or M4 drills, often marketed as the same thing or interchangeably, last longer than HSS and will drill (slightly) harder steel. HSS drills are the equivalent of AO belts compared to ceramic. if that tells you anything.
5. Even a cheap drill can work well if you use the right speed and pressure (feed). You need to adjust your speed to match the material and diameter of the drill.
6. Use some kind of lube, even plain old motor oil - something. I use Tapamatic Tappnig wax. I keep it in a cup next to my drill presses and jam the drill into it before every operation.
7. Too many people don't press hard enough when drilling. If you drill too light, you just heat the drill tip and dull it. Different materials produce different types of chips/swarf. Basically you want a steady chip coming off your drill.
8. When drilling and you get a long chip, lift slight to break the chip and then back to drilling. Basically, this is lifting for 1/2 a second and then back to it. Don't get a big long, razer sharp chip swinging all over the place.
9. The drill press hurts more people in the shop than any other tool. It won't kill you like the buffer but it will give you more stitches. Never hand hold anything larger than a 3/16" drill. Have a stop to prevent helicopter blades. I wish I had a nickel for every sliced open hand I have seen from a helicopter blade cut.

Chazamm Boss Dog, you nailed it with this posting - that is what I'd call "Drill Bit Gold" advice. The only thing to add is - Print this out and put it next to your drill press!