disc sander/grinder help

SHOKR

SHOKR

Well-Known Member
hey all

i plan on making a disc sander, i wanted to buy one from rod nielson but the price for the whole thing plus shpping would be a back breaker for me now.
i did bit of research but want to ask about few things

i already have the motor, will but a cast aluminum disc and machine it to shape, is there specific thickness i better leave? is it best to have the surface entirely in tact or open a part for the shaft to be level with the rest of the disc?

i know i should keep diameter just slightly less than 9" so i can easily attach sanding paper, anything else? taper edges?

also whats the good way to stick paper to the disc? (feathering and spray adhesives are not an option at the mean time)

i will also attach teh motor to sort of block of wood to i can have it set vertically or horizontally

thanks

if you feel anything else is worth knowing or mentioning please do
 
SHOKR said:
hey all


Is it best to have the surface entirely in tact or open a part for the shaft to be level with the rest of the disc?
Click to expand...

I think it's much easier to bore a through hole for the shaft than try to do a blind hole.
So I say, yes bore a hole.

If you're casting, I'd make your pattern larger in all respects
Mount it to a faceplate on a lathe and bore it for the shaft hole.
Then make a mandrel that fits that bore and do all your machining from there.
That way, it's balanced and true.

There are other ways, but that's how I'd do it.
 
thanks!

i buy the shape already cast, and its already WAY bigger than i need

and a shop does the lathe work too, and they're good at it, so its all on me and the design :)

wouldnt need something to fill the gap at the chamfer part on the motor shaft? or that is too small wont affect the sanding?
 
The gap at the arbor is of little concern on a disk sander. are you going totally flat or a 1-3 degree bevel? Mine has a 3 degree and it works fine.

The sandpaper took me longer to put on and take off than it lasted.
I use the precut disks with a adhesive backing. Hermes and Klingspor make them.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
i'm going with flat

there are actually papers here sold with that fuzzy backing, you know like in shoe straps, but i'm not sure if that would be good for the sander or not
 
SHOKR said:
i'm going with flat

there are actually papers here sold with that fuzzy backing, you know like in shoe straps, but i'm not sure if that would be good for the sander or not
Click to expand...

Try them and see? You are in a Country "As you know" with limited material choices.

When I started over 15 years ago I had no money for tools etc and purchased used and old stuff from yard sales to get started.

There are also Ceramic grit 9" adhesive disks available here in the USA and if you have the money it would be worth your while to get a few shipped to you.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
That Velcro backing adds lots of thickness, and you somewhat lose the advantage of the disc, a flat hard straight surface.

I'd just see what glues you have, like rubber cement - that may allow you to peel and restick.
 
Use glue to attach thin cork (sold in a roll, used to make gaskets for car engines) to your disc.

A low-tack spray glue will hold your sand paper onto the cork on the disc - trim off the access sand paper and your good to go.
 
thanks guys

Bill, will see about the cork, what dies its do?

the spray adhesive is not an option now though
 
i had this in my car for few months now... enought procrastination!

will have this machined to fit a motor i had for almost a year

i was planning on leaving the plate at about 1cm (2/5") thick, diameter slightly less than 9", and the back part's length will be left according to the size of motor
one screw is enough or 2?

any suggestions or modifications? i dont want to leave it too heavy or make a stupid mistake and have to make a new one

thanks
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Even with the use of the cork you will need to have the face machined. Why not get a bevel of 2 - 3 degres done? It makes for far more easier grinding. Frank
 
Frank Niro:239834 said:
Even with the use of the cork you will need to have the face machined. Why not get a bevel of 2 - 3 degres done? It makes for far more easier grinding. Frank
Click to expand...

Thanks Frank
Yeah i will have it all machined, just not sure about measurements

My main target use so far for the disk sander is to flatten/clean the sides of the knife, i have hell of a time doing that on the platen now that i end up doing most of it by hand
Next use is probably tapering the tang.
 
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