Personally, I use 1/8" 1080/1084 and .060-.070" 15N20, both in 1 1/2" wide X 8" long. I generally start with 40-60 layer billets, but I have equipment that will handle that size. Usually it's an individual's equipment capabilities that dictates the size billets that they can start with. The reason I use the thicknesses I do, is because the nickel in 15N20 makes it compression resistant, and by the time I get to my desired layer count, the layers are more or less of equal thickness. There are several individuals that I know who start with shim stock, stack 200-400 layers of that up, and have their desired layer count in a single forge weld. But then they have to "pattern" the material....so if it's time/effort savings you're considering, it's pretty much a wash.
My thought pattern is that I want the steel exposed to the fewest heats necessary in order to achieve the number of layers and the pattern I desire, but I also want enough damascus stock for multiple blades, which is why I choose to do it the way I do.