Cutting Mosaic Pins

1961MJS

Member
Hi

I bought a couple of feet of Jantz Supply Mosiac pins and need to cut them for a knife. What's' the best way to cut the pins? I've been using a hack saw for the brass and nickle silver pins. Those are $2.00 roughly and the mosiac's are $20 a piece so I'd hate to screw them up.

Thanks

Mike
 
Mosaic pins are expensive, but in the big scheme of things the massive headache you create by cutting the pins a tad too short is a terrible trade for spending an extra two dollars on pin material per knife. If your pin holes are tight, you'll find you want to chamfer the edges on the pin after you cut it so that it can be pushed through the scales during glue-up. Having an extra 1/4" of pin allows you to have some pin stick out of each side, so the chamfered corner won't mater anyway. That little bit of extra pin also allows you to tweak the rotation of the pin so you can make the mosaic pattern align properly with the knife, or with the other pin if you use two. It looks odd when the mosaic pins are not indexed the same. It is false economy to try to squeeze every last fifty cents out of a material, when the real cost is all the extra time and frustration it causes you in the making process trying to twist a pin that doesn't stick out of the handle.
 
Thanks

That was my plan. I have puppy paw pins and plan on running them up to the blade or down to the handle. I'll have to Chamber the pins a little to get them in anyway. I'm just trying to avoid screwing one up. Cutting 1/8 inch pins with pliers isn't a big deal, but that would ruin a mosaic pin.

Thanks again
 
mosaic pins are usually soft. a hacksaw is fine if you don't have a bandsaw.


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Words of of wisdom here...
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Mosaic pins are expensive, but in the big scheme of things the massive headache you create by cutting the pins a tad too short is a terrible trade for spending an extra two dollars on pin material per knife. If your pin holes are tight, you'll find you want to chamfer the edges on the pin after you cut it so that it can be pushed through the scales during glue-up. Having an extra 1/4" of pin allows you to have some pin stick out of each side, so the chamfered corner won't mater anyway. That little bit of extra pin also allows you to tweak the rotation of the pin so you can make the mosaic pattern align properly with the knife, or with the other pin if you use two. It looks odd when the mosaic pins are not indexed the same. It is false economy to try to squeeze every last fifty cents out of a material, when the real cost is all the extra time and frustration it causes you in the making process trying to twist a pin that doesn't stick out of the handle.
 
I use a dremel with a thin cut off wheel also. Works much better than a hacksaw especially when they sneak a few stainles pins.
 
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