Cutting and Profiling Stainless Steel

Randy Lucius

Randy Lucius

Well-Known Member
Just started working with stainless. CPM154 and 440C. Cutting out the profiles with a port-a-band saw. It's killing blades. Using 18tpi blades that I used for high carbon steels. Should I be using a blade with more tpi or a different blade all together?
 
I have not used much stainless steel. Just a little bit of 440c. Maybe 5 knives or so.

However, when I cut 440C - I think it cuts easier than 1075/1080 or 1095. To me, 440c seems really soft. After it is hardened, I can hardly shape it on the grinder. But, before hardening not much problem.

I use my portaband with the 18tpi blades on the slowest speed possible. WEIRD!!!
 
I find that stainless needs more pressure, not less. If you go too slow the cut area will work harden and make the stuff insufferable to cut. I can get a lot of stainless blades cut from a bandsaw blade, but you really want to lay into it a good bit. I used to cut on the lowest speed I could, but counter-intuitively, I now run my bandsaw on the high setting (still super slow... it's a metal saw) and it cuts better. I use an 18tpi Starratt bimetal blade
 
Dennis Morland said:
I have not used much stainless steel. Just a little bit of 440c. Maybe 5 knives or so.

However, when I cut 440C - I think it cuts easier than 1075/1080 or 1095. To me, 440c seems really soft. After it is hardened, I can hardly shape it on the grinder. But, before hardening not much problem.

I use my portaband with the 18tpi blades on the slowest speed possible. WEIRD!!!
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The CPM154 is giving me the most trouble.
 
John Wilson said:
I find that stainless needs more pressure, not less. If you go too slow the cut area will work harden and make the stuff insufferable to cut. I can get a lot of stainless blades cut from a bandsaw blade, but you really want to lay into it a good bit. I used to cut on the lowest speed I could, but counter-intuitively, I now run my bandsaw on the high setting (still super slow... it's a metal saw) and it cuts better. I use an 18tpi Starratt bimetal blade
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Thanks John. I’ll try your suggestions.
 
The blade tpi depends on the thickness of the metal being cut. Working with <.100" I really like the 18 TPI blades. With thicker stuff, .130" and over I might drop down to a 14 TPI blade. The theory says you need at least 2 to 3 teeth in metal all the time.
 
KenH said:
The blade tpi depends on the thickness of the metal being cut. Working with <.100" I really like the 18 TPI blades. With thicker stuff, .130" and over I might drop down to a 14 TPI blade. The theory says you need at least 2 to 3 teeth in metal all the time.
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My stuff is running around .150. Probably need to pick up some 14 tpi blades. Thanks Ken.
 
Glad to hear you're on top of it.

I don't know how martensitic stainless steels compare to the austenitic stainless steels I'm used to working with, but we typically get better performance from lower tooth count blades across the spectrum. I suppose it's because they take a bigger chip which deals with the work hardened layer better.
 
tkroenlein said:
Glad to hear you're on top of it.

I don't know how martensitic stainless steels compare to the austenitic stainless steels I'm used to working with, but we typically get better performance from lower tooth count blades across the spectrum. I suppose it's because they take a bigger chip which deals with the work hardened layer better.
Click to expand...
18 tpi always did the job on 1084 and 1075 that I’m used to working with. Not so with this stainless. I’ll buy 14’s from now on. Might try some 10/14 that were mentioned earlier.
 
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