Cutlery Rivets vs Pins

SC_Knives

SC_Knives

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

Have a question for ya. I've been asked to restore a few kitchen knives and the individual would like something other than pins to hold the handles on. I've used Corby Bolts in the past and really trust them, however, I'm no sure he wants to pay the extra amount for them. With that being said, how well do cutlery rivets hold compared to standard pins? And would it be better to stick with Corby Bolts?

Thanks!

Cory
 
SC_Knives said:
Hey guys,

Have a question for ya. I've been asked to restore a few kitchen knives and the individual would like something other than pins to hold the handles on. I've used Corby Bolts in the past and really trust them, however, I'm no sure he wants to pay the extra amount for them. With that being said, how well do cutlery rivets hold compared to standard pins? And would it be better to stick with Corby Bolts?

Thanks!

Cory
Click to expand...

Hi Cory!
I also have restored knife handles for customers and don't really care for or trust those two part cutlery rivets and have always used Loveless type bolts that are only a few dollars per set or pins and would take both over Rivets.
You will need the step drill or have the same two bits in your arsenal for the loveless.
Corby's would be fine since they screw together too and tell the customer that if it wants you to do it it is going to be done right!

That's part of the learning curve on how to take in work. You have to price it accordingly So you feel a quality job will be done at a price that makes you some money.

It was tough the first time I had to tell a potential customer.

Sorry, I can't do a QUALITY job for what you're willing pay!

Good Luck!

Laurence

www.westsidesharpening.com/
 
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Thanks for the help Laurence.

Haven't have a problem with pins or Corby's letting go, so might as well stick with what works.

Thanks again!

Cory
 
Cory, I've had good luck using a 82 degree counter sink to widen the hole just barely (the spindle on the drill press drops only about 1/6") and then proceed with nickel silver rod. The rod then gets peened into place and holds the scales on permanently. Just peen slow so that you don't crack the scales... its takes a little practice but you get great results.
 
I've used a few dozen sets of cutlery rivits...and had to hammer 2 off. They hold just fine when properly installed and are pure heck to get apart when you screw up. That's pretty much as you would want since if it came apart easily I would question the holding strength.

I have 2 issues with them, and neither is particularly serious. First, if you want much curve to the sides of the handle, it is easy to grind through the thin heads and ruin the roundness. Second, if you don't get them started right the male end crushes the side of the female end and either gets in between the scale and blade or keeps the pin from seating to the proper depth, ruining the set. Proper beveling and all helps here since the ends are pretty square and they are a little long for my uses, plus a little care in assembly.

Once installed properly into a right sized hole, the shank flares against the blade and locks it all tight for a very secure attachment. Don't be scared of them, they work fine in my experience.
 
Jantz sells step drills designed for cutler's rivets. Just don't drill the holes too deep; just cut the hole deep enough to seat the head in. If you get it too deep it makes it difficult th drive the two parts together. The heads on the smaller cutler's rivets that Jantz sells are a little thicker the the larger rivets so you can sand on them a little more. Remember that they also come in short and long lengths so match them up with the finished thickness of the scales.

I drill holes in the tang with a bit the same diameter as the portion of the step drill that cuts the hole for the shank of the rivet to set in. Then I proceed with glueing a scale to one side of the tang, drill the pin holes through it, glue on the second scale and then drill the pin holes through it from the first side. If needed I then sand the scales down to approximate finished dimentions except for rounding off the edges. I then use the existing pin holes to guide the step drill and drill out the recess for the head and set the rivets. After that, I round the edges of the scales with a drum on my Dremel but you could do the same thing with a rasp. I might then lightly sand the scales on a slack belt to bring the lines together and then proceed to hand sanding.

Doug
 
Compression rivets are strong in shear and tension. Jantz step drills work great.
 
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