clip/swedge help!?

theWeatherman

theWeatherman

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I have asked about clips and swedges before but I am still running into some problems that I believe should not be this hard.

I am trying to make knives that have a full flat grind and then a false swedge/clip like a fighter. The problems I am having is that when I go to make the swedge it comes out uneven and not nice. The way I have been going about it is set up and scribe the normal cutting edge to about .02 and then scribe the swedge to .015 - .02.

I will then do the bevels and finish to 400 grit and then try the swedge. BUt sometimes it looks uneven or if it does look even the lines where the swedge grind meets the flat grind doesn't look crisp and even like everyone else's. All grinding is done free hand.

A good process or thoughts would be much appreciated.
 
To be more specific, I am looking at the process and ideas behind why you are doing it your way. Like do you grind your swedge first, before the main grind?
 
I was very resistant to grinding the swedge on a knife until Murph wouldn't quit talking about it over and over and over and over... :)

The ones I have done were after the main bevels were ground. I found that by getting the main bevels as close to perfectly matching as possible, I could treat the swedge just like any other bevel-grinding. Just paying very careful attention to keep each side even as you progress.

Are you certain that your steel is flat? a slight bend or warp in the steel could give you an impossible situation to keep even.
What grit are you using to start your swedge? If it is 50 or 80, maybe you could start with a fresh 120, to remove less metal per pass, but it will still cut cleanly and should be easier to control. This way you also have 1 less grit to go through on finishing (meaning less chance of not lining up correctly).
 
Don't discount using a half round file and really slowing the process down so that you can control things better.

Doug
 
For the swedge or false edge on mine I always turn the grinder speed way down and use a finer belt than for the main grinds. Keeps the stock removal to a minimum for easier control. I can take just as long grinding a shallow 3" false edge on a bowie as the full main grinds. I do them last, even after cleaning up the plunges at the ricasso.
 
Swedge after bevels are finish ground.
80 grit belt
hand finish from there out with a HARD backing only. No rubber or cork backing for sharp lines !

Very important for the main bevels to be symmetrical or you'll be chasing your tail with the swedge.

MHO only :) finishing to a higher grit on the grinder would be nice but it only take a few minutes to sand it out by hand which is FAR better than trashing the swedge with a belt.

-Josh
 
Thanks guys.

What I ended up doing:

I set up a grinding table at 55 degrees and used a 120 grit belt. I ground the swedge before the other bevels. I had to think about this because if I did it after the bevels I would have less material to work with if I screwed up. They came out really well actually. I will end up HTing this weekend and I will let you know how finishing them goes.
 
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