Chisel pry knife with metal butt end

[Taz575]

Buddy wants another chisel pry knife, but with a metal butt cap so he can use a hammer on it to push it into crevices and stuff. He is in hvac and uses the knife to chisel and pry away wood. Going to use 8670 for the blade. Do I forge or tig weld pieces of 8670 to the end of the tang like a tall bolster, or would mild steel be better? 2 pieces of 1/4" 8670 on each side or 1/2" of mild steel? Or weld an end cap onto the back of the tang like a T? Is there a better way to go about this?

I know I will need to anneal the blade after and leave the end soft for hammering on when I heat treat it.

 

[KenH]

I think I might use the 8670 and HT 'n temper so the butt to hammer on would be around 30 to 40 Rc to help prevent any mushrooming from being hammered on. For sure not hard enough to have any chips fly off when hammered on.

 

[52 Ford]

I think I might use the 8670 and HT 'n temper so the butt to hammer on would be around 30 to 40 Rc to help prevent any mushrooming from being hammered on. For sure not hard enough to have any chips fly off when hammered on.

Agreed. When I make punches and chisels, I draw the temper back on the striking end so it's about a medium straw color, then quench.

I think a good real world example of how hard you want the striking end to be is an impact socket. Hard enough that the square in the socket doesn't mushroom out from impacting, but the socket is soft enough that it doesn't shatter like a chrome socket.

Sent from my Champion Forge using Tapatalk

 

[Taz575]

I think I am going to try to Tig weld the layers together (2 layers of 1/4" 8670 on each side of the 1/4" 8670 tang) and then do the forge weld after so I don't have to worry about the pieces shifting on me and I can keep oxygen out of the welds, too. Should be interesting!