Check out my grinder

Frank Aguirre

Frank Aguirre

Well-Known Member
Check out my newest addition to my shop! Its a Bader. I just bought it off my good friend Rey Garza. I just need to wire up my shop with a 22 outlet and I will be good to go. It has a 2hp moter, variable speed control, 10", 1" wheels,, flat platen and he also gave me about 13 belts off all grits. I can't wait to get her to work. Better pics to come. This will replace my 2x42 craftsman.


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Nice find! A couple of suggestions.... first, if you got the smaller drive wheel with the grinder, change to it (use the smaller drive wheel). I don't remember the exact SFPM, but I do know that it awfully fast!
Secondly, don't try to grind on those aluminum wheels at the top and bottom of the platen! At best you'll wreck belts, and at worst you'll gouge the wheel(s) or get something kick backed into you. Those aluminum wheel are not meant to be contact wheels. I figured that out several years ago....the hard way. :eek:
 
I have that same grinder in a single speed, you will love it and it should run forever. Mine was in the ABS school untill I bought it in 1996! :)

Night and day from your Craftsman, congrats!
 
I bought my Bader in 1975 and the moter gave up last year. I need to get another moter but I have 4 other grinders so I havn't been in any rush to fix it .
You will love it when you get it up and running.
With th vari speed you shouldn't have to change the drive wheel.
Good luck, and good find
 
Yea Les,
I be doing this for a while.Sold my first knife in 1972, Joined the Guild in 1981
My Delta Rockwell 6x48 is an all cast Iron one made in 1952 and still going strong. All flat grinding done on it for 37 years.
Good equipment lasts a long time
 
Good luck with it!

Can I ask when you were running your 2x42 what modifications you made to it, if any? I recently ordered the ceramic glass from Tracy to mount on the platen but I don't know if I need to to any other mods to it. Thanks in advance.
 
I used a piece of ceramic tile wetsawn to width and length for the same effect. Works fine! In addition to everything Frank did, I also cut off some of the aluminum housing that goes around the bottom of the drive wheel so that I could run scotch brite belts. And I never did attach the table to the belt grinder part. I'm planning to replace the belt tensioner handle with a knob so that it'll have clearance to work blades from both directions on the slack belt. The handle is too long and gets in the way, which you've probably noticed. It'd also be good to tack weld a wingnut or something on the belt tracking adjustment screw so that you don't have to hunt up the allen key all the time. A little knob or whatever would really help. If you ever figure out a way to slow it down, let me know!
 
Yeah I haven't even put the table on there. So the basics are just run some sandpaper over the metal platen.... Would the round wheel on it be good for doing that?

Mark the platen where the belt is running true on, drill and tap 2 holes in the bottom and put screws in. Cover the platen (or did you put it on the glass) in JB weld and move it around till is pulls against itself, tape it down and let it sit for a few days. That's all there is to it?

Also did you round the edges a bit on the ceramic platen so the belt rides a bit smoother over it? If so how? I really don't want to screw this thing up so the more info I have the better,
 
Fletch Helical said:
Yeah I haven't even put the table on there. So the basics are just run some sandpaper over the metal platen.... Would the round wheel on it be good for doing that?

Mark the platen where the belt is running true on, drill and tap 2 holes in the bottom and put screws in. Cover the platen (or did you put it on the glass) in JB weld and move it around till is pulls against itself, tape it down and let it sit for a few days. That's all there is to it?

Also did you round the edges a bit on the ceramic platen so the belt rides a bit smoother over it? If so how? I really don't want to screw this thing up so the more info I have the better,
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Just use some 50 grit sand paper and roughen up the surfaces then cleanthe both surfaces.

Yes as long as you get it straight, clean surface it should work fine. It wasn't all that hard.

I did put a 45 dergree bevel on the top side of the platen so the corner would be so sharp.
 
Now I measured the platen on the 2x42 and it's 7 1/4" the glass is 8" did you just grind yours down on the belt? Also what did you use to put the bevel on the glass... Just ran it on the belt?
 
wordsmith said:
If you ever figure out a way to slow it down, let me know!
Click to expand...

I really haven't played with mine much yet other than some flat sanding against the platen on a blade I'm working on. But I haven't noticed anything super crazy about the speed yet. Then again I was using very little pressure. I spoke to Fred Rowe because I bought his bubble jig about using it on there. The 2x42 runs at 4400 FMP and Fred said he runs his belt grinder at either 5200 or 5400 (I forget which one). Granted he has a TON more experience but is the speed that much of an issue grinding a blade?

I will say I'm fairly psyched about trying the bubble jig on it.
 
Yes I just ran it on the belt to put a bevel on the top edge. I did't use the platen to do this just the slack belt. The platen I got was about 6 3/4 long and didn't have to cut it. You might put the work table and make sure its 90 degrees and grind some off. Maybe someone else will check it on that.
 
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