Buffing wheels for Handles?

theWeatherman

theWeatherman

Well-Known Member
So I have an extra 1750rpm, 1/2hp. I want to use it for buffing handles. From what I understand there are lots of wheels and what not, but what I want is a wheel that allows me to put different buffing compounds on it and then buff the handle for a final super shiny finish! :biggrin:

The plan would be to hand sand my stabilized handles to about 400 grit, then start wet sanding with true-oil to desired grit, and then buff the true-oil, then use some type of compound (white rouge?, Pink (no scratch) )? (no idea what those are)

What type of wheel do you guys suggest and buffing compound (spiral sewn buffing wheel, i see there are different types of this wheel)? I know there are lots of stuff out there and I have only seen it once by another maker.

So I guess a wheel for just buffing with compound.


And I know that a buffer can be the most dangerous tool in the shop....
 
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Weatherman. I wouldn't recommend mixing compounds on the same wheel. It contaminates the wheel with the coarsest compound. You can hand sand, then use one wheel for green compound (K&G makes a good one) and one for finishing with pink. Keep the wheels in separate bags. I use the cheap sewn wheels from HF. I also use the same wheel for the handle and blade with no problems so far. Also, if the wood is professionally stabilized, you can skip the oil and go up to 600 grit or higher before buffing. That's what works for me. I'm sure there are many other ways to get good results.
 
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What's the difference between white rouges and the green compound?

I guess I have two sides to this motor so it could have two separate wheels at once.

I find that the oil really really helps, so I have been doing it ever since, even on the stabilized woods. At least when I hand sand it.
 
And after I posted all this, I didn't even think on how to attach the wheels to the motor! It has two 5/8" pegs I think that have slots for keys. Does that mean the buffing wheels will fit?
 
You can get arbors that should fit that shaft that are tapered and the wheel will screw on them. You may find them with a 5/8 arbor hole.
but mist importantly is what Ben stated. You will want a buffing wheel for each grit of compound you use. When not in use keep them in a ziplock to keep grit contmination down. An example of this would be if you use green compound on a wheel then try to use a white or pink you will still get less than desired results due to the fact that the wheel has a courser(green) compound imbedded into it. There are many more makers experianced in buffing than i am, hopefully they will chime in.

Another option on your motor is to get a shaft and 2 pillar bearings, and run the shaft off of a belt to your motor, this will give you 2 wheels and a bit of speed adjustment if you use a step pully.

whatever route you go, BE CAREFUL!!! A buffer is most likely the most dangeroous machine in your shop! It will grab a blade from your hand and filing it with great force, usually in the direction of your body!

Good Luck and God Bless
Mike
 
Diamond G Knives said:
whatever route you go, BE CAREFUL!!! A buffer is most likely the most dangeroous machine in your shop! It will grab a blade from your hand and filing it with great force, usually in the direction of your body!

Good Luck and God Bless
Mike
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Mike is so right on this!!!!
a Buffer can grab a knife and send it to your leg in a blink of a eye! always be in the lower 90% quadrant as you are facing the wheel.
I wear a LARGE heavy leather apron at all times in my shop that goes down pass my knees to protect the family jewels and my legs.

I use Fabaluster White rough for my handles and Green Chrome is for buffing & blending steel & my edges.

Mostly, The lighter the color, the finer the grit in the rouge. There are some exceptions like most anything else.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
not trying to hijack your thread Weatherman but i have a ? That list of compounds from what i get out of it is the compounds for steel. I think Weatherman is mostly interested in wood buffing compounds and i could use the same list of what you guys are using to buff wood. So if any of you could point us in that direction it would be a great help.
 
dallas1 said:
not trying to hijack your thread Weatherman but i have a ? That list of compounds from what i get out of it is the compounds for steel. I think Weatherman is mostly interested in wood buffing compounds and i could use the same list of what you guys are using to buff wood. So if any of you could point us in that direction it would be a great help.
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I noticed this as well.... However! From some of the guys that I have talked to, white rouge and Pink (no scratch) works well on stabilized woods, because it is impreganated by the polymers which act similar to a "plastic".

Pink
http://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ABNSP

Also look at this:
http://ajh-knives.com/buffing-1.html

And from that website from bjohnson I found an adaptor for my 5/8" motor arm!!!!!


So My last question would be, what sfpm should I run? that will determine which size wheel. 8" = 3500 sfpm or 10" = 4375 sfpm
 
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Weatherman looks like BJ has you on the right track. I have 3 different buffers and use different things for each. I do use the brown carnuba on handles and its awesome on stabilized woods and anything in the rosewood family.
 
Diamond G Knives said:
Just a question on the type of buff. Has anyone tried any of the felt buffing wheels?

God Bless
Mike
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I do almost everything with felt wheels.
On hollow grinds,I found that they don't wash out grind lines compared to a sewn buff. They also bring up a shine much faster than sewn wheels. That may be because I'll grind to 3000 grit. As a final operation, I'll run a sewn buff with white compound over the handles usually because they get into tighter places. Stick with the soft and medium density wheel, the hard wheels bounce unless you have a real delicate touch. They work fine on flat grinds too and I haven't had a blade sucked out of my hands like sewn buffs.

Rudy
 
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