Buffer

opaul said:
Ok, thought I would revive this sort of. I love my new buffer. The higher finish I can put on scales is amazing.
Now the oh Sh*t part.
I was buffing a blade handle today and the next thing I knew the knife went flying out of my hand, hit the shop table before skitting across the floor.
Luckily not slicey dicey But it got my attention.
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I told you about that 2 speed on Amazon! remember speed kills :)
 
I've got a couple of Performax buffers from Menards. Picked each of them up during different sales for about $50 each. I only use spiral sewn wheels, no loose buffs, and always let the buffer do the work, while mainting a good grip. I've also used the buffers to run paper sharpening wheels, as wire wheels.

One of my next projects is going to be making my own belt driven buffing arbor. Couple of pillow block bearings with a shaft and some pulleys, and then AT LEAST a 1hp motor. This way I can slow down the speed, increase the power and get a little more out of it. Shouldn't be a hard project.

As for the "danger" of using a buffer: Yes, they can be dangerous. Yes, people have been maimed, injured, or even killed while using them.
That said, if you stay mindful of what you're doing, use it as intended, and don't get sloppy, a buffer is no more inherently dangerous than any other tool in a knife makers shop.
 
My first experience associated with knife making and buffers was in a knife making class. There was a separate buffing room with about six buffers. Two of us rookies were mirror polishing our blades when an apprentice came in to buff a guard. Us rookies were very careful and safe. The experienced maker must have had some complacency because TWICE the buffer snatched the guard out of his hand and bounced it around the room. I didn’t wait around for the third time. I found a reason to leave the room until he was finished. Complacency was the enemy.
 
Even my cheapo little HF buffer has snatched a knife and guards from me and violently shot them to the back of the bench. My reaction is always the same and not fit for print. While I agree that other machines in the shop are equally dangerous (bandsaws, lathes) the difference is you can avoid the danger zones on those machines with some confidence and proper precautions. A buffer tends to snatch things faster than the thought can get from your brain to your hand. You don't have to hold the work piece in your hand while hovering over the spinny parts on a lathe whereas on a buffer you do.

If I had a large buffer, I'd absolutely build a box guard on the return side of the buffer wheel. It might not stop the blade completely but it would at least slow it down as it broke through the 3/4" plywood on its way to my body.
 
I had a neighbor knife maker that was buffing a blade and it threw it right into his thigh. Missed his femoral artery by an inch.
Respect the buffer. Having said that, they work great and while everyone tends to hate them, they have a purpose.

Here in our shop we try to use 1/4" sewn buffs and cut the first two rows of stitches open. The sewn buffs grab and throw stuff but not as much as a loose buff.

Put something to reduce bounce back if your buffer throws something. Don't mount them on a bench with no clearance for flying stuff. You want anything grabbed by the buff to go away from you, not bounce back at you.

Keep the buffs dedicated to one compound. Don't buy a buff rake. You don't need it. Those are used for greaseless hard coating type compounds that you smear on and let dry.

buff compound basics: Black is lower grits 120 - 300, white can be anywhere from 400 to 1600 grit, pink can be anywhere from 1600 to 2000, green chrome can be 1800 to 2400 -- all depending on manufacture. Bobbing compound works very well on acrylics and other plastics.

You will not be able to hide scratches buffing. They just get shiny.

A sisal buff with black compound is so aggressive you can almost grind with it. That will remove scratches but it creates it's own weird scratches.
 
scott.livesey said:
that is why i set up with top turning away and buff on top of wheel. is what one gets used to. as said, find an adapter and set up on variable speed motor, learn how to use SLOW then increase speed if you need to. buffer will also generate a lot of heat if one is not careful.
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I'm trying this...If I am "seeing" this correctly...it should be much safer. I try to buff low on the wheel...problem is...sometimes I'm working an area and don't realize I've gotten higher on the wheel than is safe. It would be difficult to buff low enough to harm yourself with this method...unless trying to be a knothead, lol.(Though you might have to pry a knife outta the ceiling)

Also, the way Scott is using it i can make one of those ply-wood knife sharpeners that also require flipping the motor around...
 
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Is there a speed control for a 6" baldor motor? That doesn't cost a fortune? (link please)

Tracy...thanks for the info...I was perusing your knives a coupla years back and remember seeing about the best polish I've ever seen....on very clean designed knives.
 
Smallshop said:
Is there a speed control for a 6" baldor motor? That doesn't cost a fortune? (link please) /QUOTE]

single phase motor, so no. if you have VFD and extra motor, get adapter and buff and mount on motor. i also have a 2" diameter buff with adapter for drill. ok for handles and such
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scott.livesey said:
that is why i set up with top turning away and buff on top of wheel. is what one gets used to. as said, find an adapter and set up on variable speed motor, learn how to use SLOW then increase speed if you need to. buffer will also generate a lot of heat if one is not careful.
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I have mine exactly the same way.
 
I actually saw a close call on a buffer today while visiting with a guy using one to buff Koa handles.... made my .... pucker a bit, I stepped on the other side of the shop after that lol
 
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