Bowie Clip grinding/false edge

theWeatherman

theWeatherman

Well-Known Member
So I got some steel and my plan is to make a hidden tang bowie for the first time. However I would like to put a false edge on the clip ( Like a Kabar or a Wheeler fighter). I did some looking and really couldn't find information on it. I have never ground a clip or anything on the other side of the cutting edge.

What can you guys tell me about grinding the false edge on the clip? Before HT? After HT? Any suggestions on making it easy and even?

Or maybe I couldn't find anything because I am not looking in the right place or using the wrong terms?

Thanks!!!!!!
 
I am sure someone has a tutorial on grinding a swedge. I just did and delivered a hunter Saturday that had a swedge and didn't take a pic. I do it free hand so the are usually 2" or less.

I start with a Appox 7-11 degrees and I do it after HT.
I use a 50 or 60G ceramic belt. Watch that you only get about half of the depth to the spine that you want while you are forming the bevel cause you are going to come back with a 120G and 220G etc, to get the level of polish you wish.

I've seen some do it with the table adjusted to the desired angle, To me it's just as easy to do one side, My weak side first, And them my right or strong side for grinding to match up with the left hand's work.

Slow speed on a variable at about 20% of power is were I grind when doing these and remember you can come back with the next finer grit to extend the depth and clean things up.

Doing this was a bit easier than I thought it would be. You just have to pucker up and do it! :biggrin:

That's not much, I hope I've helped you?

Laurence

www.westsidesharpening.com/
 
I've only done 3 swedges ... I first practiced on my frankenknife, an old kitchenaid chef's knife that is my shop dummy.

Pre-HT, I set a bevel on the swedge leaving similar thickness (dime thick) as I did on the blade edge, for the same reason - didn't want it to warp.
Post-HT, I finished it; one I did sharp, the others I rounded on a slack belt.
 
I do it on my little folder blades on my homemade horizontal grinder with a jig I made to hold the proper angle. I find this to be one of the low stress part of building Slipjoint folders,I just have to stay clear of my nail nick.
 
I file them in before heat-treating, I just like doing it this way... I can be more accurate with a file than with the grinder, and it doesn't take very long on annealed steel.
 
I rough them in with a grinder while annealed, then file them as true as I can, then back to the grinder using a 240 grit belt very carefully, then hand sand. I bring the bevel to an edge, but do not sharpen.
 
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