Between the pins

[D-Yager]

Hey all. Need some help with a finishing problem on handles. So, I’m making full tang kitchen knives with stabilized wood and 3/16 brass pins, sanded flush. Also using epoxy between blade and back of the scales. When I sand/contour the scales I’ll start with the grinder then move to a flat stick with a strip of finer sand paper glued to the stick. Everything’s cool to this point and I quit at about 400-600 grit. Then when I go to the buffer I’m seeing small imperfections in line between the pins. Like, a little pathway that looks like it wasn’t well sanded right in line with the pins. . Assume this is because the pins are shedding brass particles into the abrasive path and actually scratching the softer handle material? And, this doesn’t always happen. Go figure!

It’s not radical and you’d need to have a pretty well trained eye to pick this up, but YOURS TRULY notices. Have tried other finish sanding methods, like a small random orbit sander but that tends to leave the handle material lower than the pins, causing an uneven surface that emphasizes the dang pin. This problem only becomes apparent when I use the buffer so could it be a buffing problem? If there was an alternative to polishing the pins I’d try that but old Mr. Buffer does such a good job overall.

The example here is typical for me. Handle is stabilized, spalted red alder. steel is stainless 440C equivalent. Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[Alden Cole]

On softer, lighter colored, or porous materials you are more likely to have that problem or the steel tang dust getting into it. For me, I use fresh abrasives and don't have much of a problem. I think some people use wd40 to keep the dust out?

 

[Robert Nese]

I use a metal sanding block and Windex or soapy water. You need to backup your sandpaper with something hard. That's why your sander won't work.If you back up your sandpaper with something soft your wood will sand faster than your pins leaving your pins high.

 

[tkroenlein]

Yeah, your buffing compound is cutting cutting pin material and depositing it. I don't do a lot of buffing, but some folks just buff with wax. I'd expect that would mitigate cutting a lot of pin material.

 

[Randy Lucius]

You may be using a too aggressive buffing compound. I buff with white first followed by a "no scratch" pink. Doesn't take a lot of pressure to get a good shine.

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

"This problem only becomes apparent when I use the buffer ..."

Not meaning to sound like a smartass, but if it's only a problem when you use the buffer, then don't use the buffer. I'm a beginner and have had a similar problem. I had to quit using my buffing wheel with abrasives because I use a lot of light wood and the metal from the pins was muddying up the wood. I'd say try increasingly fine sandpaper until you get those pins like you want them, at which time the stabilized wood should be fine, then top it off with several layers of a good wax (I like Renaissance), hand buffed.

 

[Randy Lucius]

"This problem only becomes apparent when I use the buffer ..."

Not meaning to sound like a smartass, but if it's only a problem when you use the buffer, then don't use the buffer. I'm a beginner and have had a similar problem. I had to quit using my buffing wheel with abrasives because I use a lot of light wood and the metal from the pins was muddying up the wood. I'd say try increasingly fine sandpaper until you get those pins like you want them, at which time the stabilized wood should be fine, then top it off with several layers of a good wax (I like Renaissance), hand buffed.

The bolster on this knife is imitation ivory. A very light color and softer than stabilized wood. It was buffed with white compound and then pink. I don’t think his problem is the buffer but compound choice and technique.

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

The bolster on this knife is imitation ivory. A very light color and softer than stabilized wood. It was buffed with white compound and then pink. I don’t think his problem is the buffer but compound choice and technique.
View attachment 79155

Randy, I'd love to know more about how you avoid getting sludge and smear from the pin onto the ivory. Is it because you're using very fine abrasive, or is it more about how you buff? When you buff a piece like this, are you using the edges of the wheel so that you mostly aren't buffing the pin at all? I'd love to see a 30-60 second video.

 

[Randy Lucius]

Randy, I'd love to know more about how you avoid getting sludge and smear from the pin onto the ivory. Is it because you're using very fine abrasive, or is it more about how you buff? When you buff a piece like this, are you using the edges of the wheel so that you mostly aren't buffing the pin at all? I'd love to see a 30-60 second video.

I sand to 800 grit. Use white then pink compound. Using two loose buffing wheels, one for each compound, and light pressure seems to work well. I don't avoid the pins. They get polished as well. I use the center of the wheel for the scales and the edges for the spine.

 

[MarcWeitz]

I like both of those knifes, especially the ivory handled. And because don't I have an eye for what's wrong...your problem with the pins...I couldn't really tell that there was an issue from the picture. Great looking knives tho...(sorry - no help)