Belt grinder

Absinthe said:
I have a leaning towards the Alec Steele one right now. It already has a plug that matches the ones in my shop :) I am not sure if it is a good thing or not.

The AmeriBrade has 2" tool arms, where it seems like all the others I have looked at standardized on 1-1/2" ones. I am not sure whether that is a good thing or a bad thing. Or just a thing.
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Well... http://alecsteeleblacksmith.com/past-work seems to work pretty well for him!

I kinda like that surface grinding attachment they have for the Steele grinder.

For the cost ($1000?), I'd still get a dedicated surface grinder, though. Probably convert it to take abrasive belts.

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Question here, since I’m thinking of a couple mods for my Bader, say your grinder doesn’t flip. Is there any difference if you have a work table that simply rotates 90 degrees? That’s what I’m designing for my grinder. Is it worth bothering with? Sorry if I highjacked the thread.
 
Here are some criteria I had in mind when I selected a Reeder grinder:
- Absolutely must utilize a variable speed controller
- Must have 2 tool arms, 1.5" is the standard.
- Must have spring tensioner - NOT a gas filled actuator. Gas actuators notoriously fail due to the gritty environment
- Must have a tightly sealed speed controller. The KBAC series controllers are the only ones I've seen that are rated for dusty / gritty environments
- Must be capable of either 120 or 240 volt connection, with a minimum of a 1.5 hp motor
- Must have reputable customer service with an actual phone number to talk to the people who make the machine.
Regarding Alec Steele's grinder - I wouldn't buy it for at least 2 reasons. First, it looks like it uses a gas actuator for spring tension. Second, apparently he does not have a phone number or address for his business. I believe his shop is located about 10 miles from me and I have no idea how to contact him other than via email!
 
MTBob said:
Here are some criteria I had in mind when I selected a Reeder grinder:
- Absolutely must utilize a variable speed controller
- Must have 2 tool arms, 1.5" is the standard.
- Must have spring tensioner - NOT a gas filled actuator. Gas actuators notoriously fail due to the gritty environment
- Must have a tightly sealed speed controller. The KBAC series controllers are the only ones I've seen that are rated for dusty / gritty environments
- Must be capable of either 120 or 240 volt connection, with a minimum of a 1.5 hp motor
- Must have reputable customer service with an actual phone number to talk to the people who make the machine.
Regarding Alec Steele's grinder - I wouldn't buy it for at least 2 reasons. First, it looks like it uses a gas actuator for spring tension. Second, apparently he does not have a phone number or address for his business. I believe his shop is located about 10 miles from me and I have no idea how to contact him other than via email!
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Couldn't you just holler out the window really loud?! :D I am guessing this is a branding reselling agreement. I don't think he makes them.
This, also, is the first I am hearing anything negative about gas-actuators.
 
Absinthe said:
Couldn't you just holler out the window really loud?! :D I am guessing this is a branding reselling agreement. I don't think he makes them.
This, also, is the first I am hearing anything negative about gas-actuators.
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I have a bit of experience with gas springs and gas dampers. They work well. They DO tend to loose their charge over time - but it IS NOT an issue. Think about the gas springs that hold the back hatch open on an SUV. They take many, many years to wear out. When they DO wear out, just buy new ones.

Go to McMaster Carr's website and order them. They'll be at your in a couple of days and they're very affordable.

Or, if for whatever reason you don't want to get them through McMaster, check Amazon, Ebay, etc.

Make sure they're installed with the rod facing downward. If the rod is facing up. The oil that is in the gas cylinder runs to the bottom and can't lubricate the shaft. Not THAT big of a deal - I guess it's more of a "best practices" thing.

I think the reason that they don't have a phone number listed is because of how large their client base is (because of Alec's YouTube channel) compared to their fairly small staff. Email is just easier to handle. Now, I have NO CLUE how good they are about responding to emails, but I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt. Alec seems like a pretty good dude.

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I should add that my experience with gas springs and dampers is not with belt grinders. It's with a mix of automotive stuff, farm equipment, and industrial applications.

Edit - you could probably swap it for a spring. Think of a screen door closer. They use a big spring in a tube. The dampening is just a controlled air leak. You can also get the exact opposite - push instead of pull (like a shock absorber).

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52 Ford said:
I have a bit of experience with gas springs and gas dampers. They work well. They DO tend to loose their charge over time - but it IS NOT an issue. Think about the gas springs that hold the back hatch open on an SUV. They take many, many years to wear out. When they DO wear out, just buy new ones.

Go to McMaster Carr's website and order them. They'll be at your in a couple of days and they're very affordable.

Or, if for whatever reason you don't want to get them through McMaster, check Amazon, Ebay, etc.

Make sure they're installed with the rod facing downward. If the rod is facing up. The oil that is in the gas cylinder runs to the bottom and can't lubricate the shaft. Not THAT big of a deal - I guess it's more of a "best practices" thing.

I think the reason that they don't have a phone number listed is because of how large their client base is (because of Alec's YouTube channel) compared to their fairly small staff. Email is just easier to handle. Now, I have NO CLUE how good they are about responding to emails, but I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt. Alec seems like a pretty good dude.

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Good comments - Though it sounds like our mileage varies with gas springs. I've got 4 that failed on 2 vehicles and now have sticks holding up the hoods. As I recall a lot of folks have used the gas springs with varying success. Some turn the assembly with the piston pointing down and add a boot to help keep crud from getting into the cylinder. I just like to keep things simple and coil springs seem to do the job. Ed Caffrey had some good comments on this subject.
 
I’m with Bob on the gas pistons. The interwebs are filled with stories of woe and swapping to a spring is the common solution. The problem isn’t that they die, it’s that they die slowly over time, which for a knifemaker means a lot of “why the heck won’t this belt track properly?” because that gas piston tension is your belt tension.

I’m also sure that you can find lots of makers who are happy with them. But in the immortal words of Sir Randall Jackson, “It’s gonna be a naw for me, dawg.”
 
MTBob said:
Good comments - Though it sounds like our mileage varies with gas springs. I've got 4 that failed on 2 vehicles and now have sticks holding up the hoods. As I recall a lot of folks have used the gas springs with varying success. Some turn the assembly with the piston pointing down and add a boot to help keep crud from getting into the cylinder. I just like to keep things simple and coil springs seem to do the job. Ed Caffrey had some good comments on this subject.
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Hey, if you buy replacement gas springs for a hood or a trunk *Check if your hood is aluminum or steel!* I've replaced them on some of my stuff and the factory hood is aluminum, but the springs were for aftermarket steel hoods (which way a whole lot more). If I let the hood open on its own, it's sorta violent!

I bought the steel hood ones because I had that hood almost slam on my head during a big gust of wind. Had a relative get killed like that (OLD, big steel hood, though).

Sort of nice, though. I could probably hook a chain fall to the hood latch and pull the engine! :D

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John Wilson said:
I’m with Bob on the gas pistons. The interwebs are filled with stories of woe and swapping to a spring is the common solution. The problem isn’t that they die, it’s that they die slowly over time, which for a knifemaker means a lot of “why the heck won’t this belt track properly?” because that gas piston tension is your belt tension.

I’m also sure that you can find lots of makers who are happy with them. But in the immortal words of Sir Randall Jackson, “It’s gonna be a naw for me, dawg.”
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That's true.

I think a better alternative to springs (compared to gas springs) would be a pneumatic cylinder.

Mainly cause of the "PSHHHHhhhh" noise it'd make when you're changing belts. Plus I just like pneumatic toys - err - I mean tools.

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52 Ford said:
I have a bit of experience with gas springs and gas dampers. They work well. They DO tend to loose their charge over time - but it IS NOT an issue. Think about the gas springs that hold the back hatch open on an SUV. They take many, many years to wear out. When they DO wear out, just buy new ones.

Go to McMaster Carr's website and order them. They'll be at your in a couple of days and they're very affordable.

Or, if for whatever reason you don't want to get them through McMaster, check Amazon, Ebay, etc.

Make sure they're installed with the rod facing downward. If the rod is facing up. The oil that is in the gas cylinder runs to the bottom and can't lubricate the shaft. Not THAT big of a deal - I guess it's more of a "best practices" thing.

I think the reason that they don't have a phone number listed is because of how large their client base is (because of Alec's YouTube channel) compared to their fairly small staff. Email is just easier to handle. Now, I have NO CLUE how good they are about responding to emails, but I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt. Alec seems like a pretty good dude.

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Well I didn't read it yet but I already got an email response. I could see the first line that says they have a lifetime.... I assume warranty, since that is what I was asking about. But an hour or two isn't too bad.
 
Absinthe said:
Well I didn't read it yet but I already got an email response. I could see the first line that says they have a lifetime.... I assume warranty, since that is what I was asking about. But an hour or two isn't too bad.
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Not bad at all. Same business day is as good as you can ask for with emails. Plus you can pretty much guarantee that the customer support is either in the US or maybe England.

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52 Ford said:
Not bad at all. Same business day is as good as you can ask for with emails. Plus you can pretty much guarantee that the customer support is either in the US or maybe England.

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Click to expand...

52 Ford said:
Not bad at all. Same business day is as good as you can ask for with emails. Plus you can pretty much guarantee that the customer support is either in the US or maybe England.

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"""
We offer a lifetime warranty for the Grinders and tools we sell- and mechanical or electrical problems that arise due to common use or design/build flaws are covered and will be fixed/repaired at no charge!

"""
Then went on to outline 6 reasons I should buy their product.
Meanwhile , I still have yet to hear from the other company. :)
 
Absinthe said:
We offer a lifetime warranty for the Grinders and tools we sell- and mechanical or electrical problems that arise due to common use or design/build flaws are covered and will be fixed/repaired at no charge!

"""
Then went on to outline 6 reasons I should buy their product.
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That sounds like a solid warranty.
I'll not get into a debate about which grinder to buy. Since I own a Reeder I've not attempted to compare it to other machines, but I see a lot of folks on this forum are happy with their KMG, Reeder and TW grinders. I'd recommend you take a real close look at how the grinder parts are machined and fit together. What ever you buy, I'm sure you'll find it a great addition to your shop.
 
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