Almost back in the shop...with a new design.

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KNIFE MAKER
I'm slowly recuperating from lung surgery, a stent, and a quad bypass....Going nuts as up until this week not able to work in the shop. I started design this a couple months or so ago. Kinda a combining of 3 different designs...

As I still have more bad days than good ones I was not too sure about tackling something this far outside my skill set....Then I saw a knife by Ty Adams and another by Kevin Cashen...both amazing....along with Kevin's encouragement: "I strongly encourage every bladesmith to make at least one precision fit takedown knife, due to the skills and discipline one hones when taking fit and finish to that level."

Since I have already been designing one I am going to do just that! Of course there will be learning curve involved but as slow as I am moving I can hopefully catch myself before doing something stupid...lol!

I plan on making one of these for Gene Kimi for the beautiful knife he sent me for the KITH exchange...Ignore the extreme tolerances on the blueprint...just to give a rough idea of size. Later when I dial this design in I want to make a larger Bowie. I call this one a "short fighter". I haven't designed the threaded piece that clamps the whole thing...I like what Kevin C did and will do a variant of that. I like it because you can get good feel for tightening AND use a lanyard if you wish...(I usually never wish...lol)

Hope you all are doing well!



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great to see you back, Ted! cool design... super ambitious doing a full guard on an angle like that. Lots of extra work to get things flat and square on the fit-up but you’re definitely the guy with the machinist skills to try it!
 
Glad see you back, and feeling better Ted. That looks like it will be an amazing knife. Thank you for the compliment, but I really don't think you should add me in with the likes of Kevin Cashen.
 
Glad see you back, and feeling better Ted. That looks like it will be an amazing knife. Thank you for the compliment, but I really don't think you should add me in with the likes of Kevin Cashen.
Just raising the bar a bit for you Ty...lol! Seriously though...the knife you did at John Doyles is lovely and is somewhat similar to what I am attempting...My ability to think I can do things is all over the map these days...seeing actual projects does boost morale!
 
I came up with two end cap screws...one is raised the other is recessed. The raised one follows the line of the blade but since the back of the knife angles a lot perhaps it doesn't look good? The recessed one is with the thought of correcting that AND if you were skinning something and needed to pound the back of the knife to split a pelvis it wouldn't hurt your hand...(this knife should make a fair skinner...) They're about the same amount of work and material...

any weigh in would be appreciated.

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Glad you're recovering Ted. It's good to hear your able to work a little and see you posting, too. I like them both. But I'd buy the first one, for the reasons you mentioned about hurting your hand if it's going to be for hunting.
Again, good to see you back. I hope your able to stay safe from exposure to Covid.
 
Glad you're recovering Ted. It's good to hear your able to work a little and see you posting, too. I like them both. But I'd buy the first one, for the reasons you mentioned about hurting your hand if it's going to be for hunting.
Again, good to see you back. I hope your able to stay safe from exposure to Covid.
Thank you! I'm pretty safe here....i live in a town of about 80 people and have been staying out of the "big" town 30 miles away (pop 8000)
 
Either model looks good ted. I kind of favor the lanyard model if it were coming out at the same angle as the but of the knife.
I've never used the but end on any game cleaning.
It's good to hear your feeling better and getting out to your shop.
 
Either model looks good ted. I kind of favor the lanyard model if it were coming out at the same angle as the but of the knife.
I like the lines on the plain one best. But I think this is what threw me off on the lanyard model too. It might be hard to make that angle though if the lanyard hole/knob is threaded on to the end of the tang. Hmmm...
 
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