2nd knife completed

Mark Barone

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
Here is a glamour shot of my second knife I ever made. Its 1095 steel. I used a modified 4 x 36 and 3000 dollars worth of sanding belts. I didn't give up. I believe that's a walnut burl. The plunge lines look alright but I need practice. It has a mustard finish ( to hide some blemishes I don't like.) I had a great deal of fun making it. It's an expensive hobby if you don't know what you are doing. I'm so addicted but can't afford a KMG type grinder. Will a grizzly be an ok step up. I need to improve my plunge lines and use belts that last longer. The 4 x 36 and 1 x 30 belts seem to wear out quickly and the tracking stinks. Other tools I have, HF bandsaw for scales, dremel for tight curves, angle grinder to cut out blank. I don't much but I have been on this site learning a great deal from everybody. I do appreciate this site. IMG_3430.JPG
 
You will improve with each knife you make. Take your time and it will all come together. That’s a beautiful piece of wood. I like the mustard patina. To my eye there’s is to much ricaaso between the plunge line and scales.
 
opaul said:
You will improve with each knife you make. Take your time and it will all come together. That’s a beautiful piece of wood. I like the mustard patina. To my eye there’s is to much ricaaso between the plunge line and scales.
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My thought as well Retroguy. If the plunge line was moved back to just behind the end of the finger notch there wouldn't need to be the sharpening notch.
Having said that, for a second knife it is a very creditable showing with beautiful wood to compliment it.
 
gotcha, I can see that now. The large finger notch was also a mistake. I used the wheel on top of my 1x30 as the radius and it changed the shape of my blade. I have dremel now. Thanks for the input. Before I grind, I think I'll plop a picture of the template of my next blade on here for input. Also right now I seem to be able to get a 220 grit on the bevel looking good. Is that acceptable? Or not fine enough?
 
I grind on the grizzly knifemaker model. In my opinion it is a good mid level option. In truth it is not precision built like a KMG but at less than half the cost it is a good option especially for a hobby maker. Many who have upgraded from a grizzly still use the grizzly for other processes in their shop. I hope to have my KMG in a month or two but I am keeping the grizzly and will set it up for profiling.
 
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That sure is a beautiful second knife. The mustard patina, burl handle, and choice in mosaic pins is a good combo.
 
Retroguy, if that is you second, you got natural talent!!

That curve that comes from the blade to handle. I would try it just big enough for a finger. Then push the plunge line back as far as you can, like others have said!

Where did you find that mosaic pin??? I like it !!
 
nice knife...While there is a bit of extra real estate between the plunge line and scale...I like knives like that for up close work like skinning, etc. the extra pinch area gives good control. I think the advise given is good though, and you did a real nice job on shape so you still have an excellent knife there.
 
I

C Craft said:
Retroguy, if that is you second, you got natural talent!!

Where did you find that mosaic pin??? I like it !!
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That curve was my down fall. I used the top wheel of my 1 x 30 as a guide. It was bigger than I thought.
So I got the pins of Amazon. Just type in mosaic pins. Very expensive. About 40 bucks for 5 inch pin. Maybe get 3 knifes out of it. I was considering cutting 1/8 inch piece and first using mostly plain brass pin inset into the handl a bit and and then inlaying the last 1/8 inch with the expensive pin. Not sure if that would compromise the strength of the handle.[/QUOTE]
 
Thanks everybody for your replies and corrections needed for my next knife. Ill pay more attention the anatomy next time. I knew it was off but I wanted to finish it to see if I have the ability to complete one. Although I am proud of it, I used way too many materials to make it and the sanding process on the blade was a nightmare. I was pretty comfortable making the handle. It's softer than metal. Who knew?
 
Retroguy said:
was considering cutting 1/8 inch piece and first using mostly plain brass pin inset into the handl a bit and and then inlaying the last 1/8 inch with the expensive pin.
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Never thought of that. My initial thought would be that it would not effect the strength much if at all. My second thought would be to put two full length pins or one full pin and a lanyard tube and then just do a true inlay with the high dollar pin and hope it does not pop out one day. My third and final thought would be I am not saving much material or money by doing just an inlay and its more than likely not worth the risk of an inlay popping lose and having to warranty it. Now you have a glimpse into the vast expanse that is the void of my mind.
 
Chris Railey said:
Never thought of that. My initial thought would be that it would not effect the strength much if at all. My second thought would be to put two full length pins or one full pin and a lanyard tube and then just do a true inlay with the high dollar pin and hope it does not pop out one day. My third and final thought would be I am not saving much material or money by doing just an inlay and its more than likely not worth the risk of an inlay popping lose and having to warranty it. Now you have a glimpse into the vast expanse that is the void of my mind.
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Haha
I think I have come to the same conclusion. If I was mass producing these and watching my bottom line, it might be a good idea. But I spent 2000 dollars on sandpaper to finish this knife so I don't think that pin is my biggest problem.
 
I have often thought of getting some fine or very fine diamond stones and trying some hand sanding with those kind of like draw filing but I do not know how much paper I would save versus the cost of diamond stones. They should make value priced diamond grit sand paper...
 
Belts for a 1x30 will put you in the poorhouse. As you’ve discovered, 2x72 belts are about the same price for 5x the surface area, making them 5x cheaper. Add to that the incredible difference in the machines they go on and well... that’s why knifemakers have standardized on 2x72.

A lot of great knives have been made on Grizzly and Coote grinders. But, everyone also moves away from them when they can. Money is a real concern and every knifemaker has struggled with this decision.
 
Wowzie!! Where do you live? I doubt that I've spent $3000.00 (or) $2000.00 on belts within my entire life. And I'm 84 years old.

Made hundreds of knives, too. Some here may even have seen one or two. ;):rolleyes:o_O
 
John Wilson said:
Belts for a 1x30 will put you in the poorhouse. As you’ve discovered, 2x72 belts are about the same price for 5x the surface area, making them 5x cheaper. Add to that the incredible difference in the machines they go on and well... that’s why knifemakers have standardized on 2x72.

A lot of great knives have been made on Grizzly and Coote grinders. But, everyone also moves away from them when they can. Money is a real concern and every knifemaker has struggled with this decision.
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Thank you. Yes I think I will step up to grizzly/ Coite at least. Tough to make a bigger leap at this point.
 
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