To reiterate Knifemaker.ca and Doug’s excellent advice, a slightly slower oil does not necessarily mean total failure to harden, it only means your depth of hardening is limited. I have found that most oils not designed to deal with the needs of 1095 will result in the beginning of pearlite formation at around 3/16” up a wedge shaped section, like a knife bevel. Depending on your edge bevel angles this should be far enough away from the edge to insure good hardness where it really counts. The other downside is that you will be limited to hardness files for checking hardness where you can- at the edge. Any flat area approaching 3/16” that would be ideal for a Rockwell test will only read as soft, this is why I pace like a caged animal when I am asked to heat treat a thick 1095 blade.
1095 is my steel of choice when doing testing for quench effectiveness since it is one of the most demanding in quench speed of the high carbon steel s, but my test coupons are cross sectioned for hardness reading. As I mentioned, most oils begin to fall short at the 1/16” mark, while under just the right conditions, Parks #50 has hardened up to 5/16” spines. But speed is not everything, the ideal quenchant gets you maximum martensite formation with the least amount of stress in the process. In knife size cross sections there is no need for water based quenchants with modern alloys, if a knife comes out less hard than you wanted you can always re heat treat it, but if you hear that dreaded “ping” you are done. I have observed many water quenches with modern steels and almost all of the successful ones involved under-soaking to avoid that ping. It is far better to get maximum hardening from a gentler quench than to deny the martensite precious carbon in order to deal with a quenchant that is overkill.
The quickest and most economical solution to your initial question is to simply increase your oil volume to handle the heat volume. Industry does work with special cooling setups through which the oil is circulated, but if that was an option the switch from canola/olive to a dedicated quench oil wouldn’t be a problem either. With what you have, simply buy more oil, and if you want no hamons make thinner knives and soak them well.