1084 HT

Justin W.

Justin W.

Well-Known Member
Hey guys Im fixing to make my first big order of real knife making steel.It's hard to believe that I've made almost 30 knives using files and leaf springs! I've decided to go with 1084 due to the fact that I am very much so doing a "backyard" heat treat. With that being said how do I get the most out of this steel with my current set up. I have a ammo can propane forge and I was gonna quench canola oil because I can't really afford to pick up the parks 50 at this time.

I know that there are many skilled makers on this forum that use 1084 quite often. What would you guys recommend for me to get the most out of 1084. Thanks as always!
 
Good on ya for choosing 1084 in light of your current equipment status!

1084 is about as foolproof as it gets when it comes to heat treating. This is way oversimplified, but get it hot, quench it in something wet, and you will get a very serviceable blade. :)

I've reviewed Kevin Cashen's video on heat treating 1084, and would recommend it to anyone! Very well done, and it might even surprise some folks.

So, all that being said, let's talk specifics....

First, getting the most out of a specific steel in a knife blade application, involves MANY more factors than just the heat treat. Think hard about blade geometry first! Then when "working out" the heat treat, remember that you're working out a heat treat that performs the best with the chosen blade geometry.

OK....a step back to numbers/times, etc.
The majority of my grinds are flat, with convex edges, that vary in degree based on the individual blade.... smaller blades have finer geometry.....larger blade have a more coarse geometry.

For the first type, which would be hunter sized blades... from a forged blade aspect:
-After forging, thermal cycle 3X
-After thermal cycle, heat to just critical (I use 1525F) and into the annealing tub/vermiculite
After rough grind, my heat treat consists of.....
Bring blade to 1525F, NO SOAK, and quench in 120-130F pre-heated oil
-Allow blade to cool down IN THE QUENCH, until it can be handled with bare hands.
-Temper: 415F, 3X, 2 hours each time, allowing the blade to cool NATURALLY between temper cycles.

Now, understand, these are the steps that I have developed over time, and were developed to gain the best performance not only from the steel, but from the grinds/geometry that I apply to blades.... but I would recommend the above information as a starting point for anyone venturing into 1084.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
Good on ya for choosing 1084 in light of your current equipment status!

1084 is about as foolproof as it gets when it comes to heat treating. This is way oversimplified, but get it hot, quench it in something wet, and you will get a very serviceable blade. :)

I've reviewed Kevin Cashen's video on heat treating 1084, and would recommend it to anyone! Very well done, and it might even surprise some folks.

So, all that being said, let's talk specifics....

First, getting the most out of a specific steel in a knife blade application, involves MANY more factors than just the heat treat. Think hard about blade geometry first! Then when "working out" the heat treat, remember that you're working out a heat treat that performs the best with the chosen blade geometry.

OK....a step back to numbers/times, etc.
The majority of my grinds are flat, with convex edges, that vary in degree based on the individual blade.... smaller blades have finer geometry.....larger blade have a more coarse geometry.

For the first type, which would be hunter sized blades... from a forged blade aspect:
-After forging, thermal cycle 3X
-After thermal cycle, heat to just critical (I use 1525F) and into the annealing tub/vermiculite
After rough grind, my heat treat consists of.....
Bring blade to 1525F, NO SOAK, and quench in 120-130F pre-heated oil
-Allow blade to cool down IN THE QUENCH, until it can be handled with bare hands.
-Temper: 415F, 3X, 2 hours each time, allowing the blade to cool NATURALLY between temper cycles.

Now, understand, these are the steps that I have developed over time, and were developed to gain the best performance not only from the steel, but from the grinds/geometry that I apply to blades.... but I would recommend the above information as a starting point for anyone venturing into 1084.
Click to expand...
OK Awesome I'm sorry that I did not give more information into what it is that I am doing. The knives that I will be making from 1084 are gonna be small fixed blade hunters they will have a full flat grind and I am using stock removAL to get them there :). As far as geometry goes I put my center lin on the spine and on the blade portion of the blank then free hand my bevels from there. Do you have a better way to get my geometry consistent or do I just need more practice
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When I refer to "geometry", one of the most important aspects to me is the thickness right at the edge. The thinner the edge, the less cutting resistance it offers. Generally for the size blades you're doing, I will flat grind, leaving things about the thickness of of nickel PRIOR to heat treating. After heat treating, I grind the flats until the edge thickness is about 1/16", then I convex the edge. By the time I finish with a 400 grit belt, the edge is ragged sharp. With larger blades, I size the flat on the edge accordingly prior to convexing it.

If you experiment with it, you'll see that very tiny differences in the size and mass of the convex edge(s) creates significant differences in strength, and cutting resistance.

I tend to do much of my grinding AFTER heat treating....you of course have to be more careful, but in the shop, I live by the mantra...... I can always grind it off.....but I can never put it back. ;)
 
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