1/8 thickness bevel trouble.

[Mark Barone]

As many of you know I use a 1 x 30 to make my knifes. I do pretty well getting nice bevel lines on 3/8 thick stick. I recently tried to make a neck knife on 1/8 stock and the bevel line is very rough. It must have something to do with the smaller angle and maybe pressure. On a 2 x 72 is there a similar issue. I hope I am explaining this clearly.

 

[Chris Railey]

Define rough please.

 

[BossDog]

a full flat grind on a thin blade is harder than on a thick blade. You have more time and material to work with to get it right on a thick blade. On a thin blade, it's easy to go too far. Usually a scandi grind on a thin blade is the way to go.

 

[opaul]

I agree. For me it is much easier grinding on thick stock as opposed to thinner stock.

 

[John Wilson]

This is where a file guide comes in real handy. On a 1x30 the belt flutters a lot when you put pressure on it and a fluttering belt won’t usually give you a clean plungeline. Having that guide clamped on the blade gives you a hard wall to run that belt up against and the line will end up clean.

On a 2x72 if your plunges aren’t clean then likely your olunge line is not approaching the belt at the same angle each pass. If this is the case then it is likely your problem on the 1x30 as well.

Thin stock doesn’t give you the same dramatic plunge line as thick stock does. But if you make them clean they still look great.

 

[Mark Barone]

At least I feel I’m not alone. And to clarify, I wasn’t trying to discribe the plunge line, but the parallel line below the spine. I think you got that from your comments . Is there a name for that line?

 

[opaul]

I just call it the grind line

 

[John Wilson]

At least I feel I’m not alone. And to clarify, I wasn’t trying to discribe the plunge line, but the parallel line below the spine. I think you got that from your comments . Is there a name for that line?

Oh okay. Gotcha. Sorry for misunderstanding you on that.

Are you saying that line looks wavy, or that it’s fairly non-distinct? It won’t be as distinct for the same reason that the plunge lines won’t be as dramatic. With thin stock the angle just isn’t as dramatic. A good trick is to create some contrast with your hand sanding. Let’s say you go to 600 for a satin finish. Make a few single-direction pulls along the flats with 320. That will make the flats and the bevels catch the light a little differently and will accent the bevel line. It’s subtle but it works.

Another thing is to avoid washing out the grind line. If you want a bold transition line make sure not to use a pad under your sandpaper or else it will soften that corner when you hand sand.

 

[Mark Barone]

Oh okay. Gotcha. Sorry for misunderstanding you on that.

Are you saying that line looks wavy, or that it’s fairly non-distinct? It won’t be as distinct for the same reason that the plunge lines won’t be as dramatic. With thin stock the angle just isn’t as dramatic. A good trick is to create some contrast with your hand sanding. Let’s say you go to 600 for a satin finish. Make a few single-direction pulls along the flats with 320. That will make the flats and the bevels catch the light a little differently and will accent the bevel line. It’s subtle but it works.

Another thing is to avoid washing out the grind line. If you want a bold transition line make sure not to use a pad under your sandpaper or else it will soften that corner when you hand sand.

So wavy or non distinct . Yes on both accounts. I think it's a casualty of the 1x30. I know a 1x 30 is basically a Tyco toy but I gotten to know it pretty well and get some pretty clean grind lines. The platen I'm sure is not precisely flat. But I do like your suggestions on creating contrast. I will keep that in mind. This is still my favorite little knife I did on the toy. This is a neck knife but with 3/8 stock. It's a bit heavy to wear around the neck, hence my 1/8 stock question.

 

[John Wilson]

Wavy is uneven pressure as you draw the knife across the platen. With that skinny little flexy platen on a 1x30 it’s probably unavoidable to a large degree. Probably something you’ll always have to fix during hand sanding.