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^ A drip system doesn't just ride along the belt without getting it wet, here in my shop anyways. A tiny stream or steady drip is all you need. I don't think a paint brush is necessary, the workpiece itself distributes the water pretty well.

Yes a cool mister will help, though run at high speed it's going to make a mess. I run water soluble cutting fluid very lean on the grinder. I'm using Trim Microsol 585XT at about 1%, though that's just what I happen to have around the shop. When used this lean it can go funky if it sits a...

My KMG is pretty quiet, but the motor itself makes some noise. I cut out squares of soft polyurethane rubber and punched holes in the center and set the motor on the soft rubber and also used rubber under the washers on top of the motor and the washers under the bench. This isolated the motor...

This is a heavy duty combat knife designed as a stabbing weapon and built to tolerate extremely rough use in demanding environments. The handle is ergonomically designed for a standard forward, reverse, saber and pinch grips for an average to relatively large hand. The tang is internally...

Contact cement won't work on steel. An industrial cyanoacrylate is your best bet for most real rubbers (not rubberized thermoplastics). I have used 3M Pronto CA40 for this. Both surfaces should be cleaned with solvent. It takes about a week for the CA to fully cure under these conditions.

Y'all make it sound like 304 is some really bad stuff to work with. And maybe the stuff you have is, I've heard some folks who got imported material that gave them a lot of grief. But normally 304 really isn't that bad. And it has much better corrosion resistance than 400 series material...

I'm not so sure about "go really slow" or "go really fast". Carbide and hard steel has a relatively narrow chip load window, and I think moderate speeds will help you fall into that window better. For all practical purposes, carbide will not be effected by heat, so there is no reason to go...

I wouldn't think that would be a concern. Forging it as Bruce suggests isn't any different than rolling the billet at the mill. The primary advantage of the powdered metallurgy process is the even distribution of things like alloying and related carbides, which aren't going to move at that temp...

Yeah, the tracking was my concern. I was thinking about raising the tracking wheel, or actually just tweaking the spring mount and pivoting the whole mess around backwards. What I don't know is if it will work or not. I was hoping someone had already done this, but I'm about ready to give it a...

My main contact wheel is 10". I need something larger. I already have radius platens in 36" and 48". Unfortunately, when you get much smaller than 36" you start needing a contact wheel because the heat generated by wrapping the belt around a tighter radius.

The wheel would need to be spaced up a little, and the geometry between the top of the contact wheel, the tracking wheel and the drive wheel would be almost straight. So I'm wondering what will happen to the tracking? Has anyone here ever used a 16" wheel on their KMG? I'm contemplating making one.

They're used in industry to deburr parts because they're very good at rounding external edges and corners, which is where the burrs are. They don't do as much to the flats. If you like nice crisp grind lines, be aware this process washes them out fairly quickly. With the right media they are...

If that is in as good shape as it looks you got a good deal. If you can, you might want to run a strap over the top of it, and lock the ways. Otherwise, holding a mill to a pallet by just the table isn't especially good for it. Nice score.

Dang Bruce. I wish you would have asked this on the other forum. I don't get time to come around here as much as I would like. D2 is my pet steel. Has been for years. I have some hard earned experience that I'll share. Some of it contradicts information in earlier posts. So y'all please...

I eat my venison bloody rare, and I'm a bit of a clean freak. I clean my deer the way my step father taught me (mostly), the way he learned to process pigs on a farm. I normally take a head shot if I can get it. I drag it up to the trail then walk the 1/4 mile or so back up to the house and...

That is a great idea!

If it is a plain carbon steel damascus you can soften the tang a bit by heating with a torch while keeping the blade under 400 with a wet rag. If you heat the tang until it turns at least blue you will probably have better luck drilling it. A TIG or spot welder could be used to apply a lot of...

The main purpose of the oil is to keep the gunk from clogging the pores. You don't want an oil with high film strength or other good lubricating properties. Kerosene, lamp oil, WD 40 ect all fit the bill (never use WD 40 for lubrication, *shudder*). I use thin mineral oil because my stones...

Neato man, very nice. I particularly like the engraving.

Using "EDM" stones will help preserve a crisp center ridge better than sand paper. 300 400 and 600 grit stones are very useful. I am not a dagger grinding expert, however I have ground a few and I have looked at a lot of daggers and it is a subject I've given a lot of thought to...