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It's more than a couple thousandths...it's probably the worst I've done so far. I was kind of figuring I was going to have to start over, just thought I'd ask before I did. I didn't think about using the press.. I'll look at it again when I get home but I think the two areas where the drill...

So I missed the center line when drilling holes for the tang in a guard and ended up with a loose guard that looks janky. It fits but there are gaps from the drill bit missing (and one catching and going all the way through when I was trying to ream out the under side). Any ideas on a way to...

That looks awesome!! ....it also looks like it was a pain in the ass!! lol

I use West Systems G-flex. there's lots of dye's you can buy from USA Knifemaker under the "Adhesives" and "Alumilite" sections. I've used the powders before with the epoxy and it leaves a really cool sparkle and color to it.

I've heard good things about Chili Forges. That's my next planned purchase when I can afford it, as mine is a cheap one I've had for years and is worn out. https://chileforge.com/

I haven't actually posted much of anything on here before, so I thought it was probably about time.. Sorry for the low quality on some of them. There's more on my website, if anyone is interested. Facebook.com/DuckheadForge

I've started doing the same thing.. Dry ice isn't super expensive, but it does add up. It's a little easier and faster to do a batch of them then finish them out individually.

I got AAA from here, but they have 50 as well: http://store.duboischemicals.com/50-quench-oil/ http://store.duboischemicals.com/aaa-quench-oil/

On New Jersey Steel Baron for a 1.5" x 48" x .25" piece of 1084 it says it weighs 5.41lbs, which comes out to about $6.57 a pound. They don't have 1080 but I'm sure it's pretty close to the same price.

That looks awesome! How did you do that patina?

I think mine is 3:1 and I etch names, etc on AEB-L. I use vinyl to cover the blade with what i want etched cut out. It takes like 30 minutes, but it does etch stainless.

I'm the same with NJ Steel's procedure, and cryo with dry ice. I have one set of plates and use a shop vac on the "blow" port for forced air. I use nuclayer anti-scale instead of foil now. I still do them one at a time for the most part though, maybe two if they're not big and I think the...

Where did you get that?? I want one!! lol

I live in Nicholson. It's like 20 minutes north of Athens. Like 2-3 hours north of you.

Chris, I live in Georgia too and will second that it's as hot as an elephant's crotch right now... and it's only the beginning of it.. Static was a thing on my grizzly ginder with the glass platen, but I have a brodbeck now and haven't put a glass platen on it yet. It usually got me as I was...

If you're a single member LLC then the IRS considers it the same as a sole proprietor and you fill out a schedule C when you file your personal taxes. It's taxes so it gets complicated as F, but in the end you'll figure up your cost of goods sold, which will subtract items used to make the...

I'm certainly no expert, but I normalize 3 times after forging, then again after grinding, at 1500, then heat treat. I've never had any problems with it. I do it after forging mostly to make sure it's soft for grinding and drilling holes. You should definitely do it right before heat treating...

Is this still available? I sent you a PM.