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"Daniel - As a tip, you can find cheap or older slipjoints at pawnshops/sales/online/auctions/etc. Just buy a couple and take them a part." That's what I did. I took apart a China made Schlage barlow for my pattern, though I lengthened the main blade a bit. I made a pattern out of brass, than...

Quote: "I've used the A30 Trizact gator belt in the past, and didn't like it as much. It kind of glazes after a while and stops cutting." When this happens, you can put your work rest on with a contact wheel, run your grinder at max speed (if you have variable speed) and run some scrap steel...

I drill the pivot hole in both rough-shaped liners first. The pivot is a "pass through" fit in both liners. Then I put the liners together with the pivot in place and drill a pilot sized hole through both liners at the same time for the stop pin. Then I run a press-fit sized reamer through...

My pleasure, Ed! Believe me, you've taught me a lot over the years. :)

I'm not Ed, but . . . :) On a frame lock, I use two spacers in the back that screws pass through with a locator pin between them. The locator pin is in the middle position, where the third screw was when I used three screws, before I found the advantage of a locator pin. Both my locator...

Good point - when I've done it it's been with stabilized handle material. When I've done damascus with stainless bolsters, I've used brass pins and lightly peened them to attach the bolsters. Then after shaping the bolsters and handle material, I remove them, etch the damascus, and reattach...

Welcome to an apparently not so exclusive club!

I've done the same, and just used a little painter's tape to protect the scales.

I assume it's it a linerlock or framelock? If your backspacer(s) are held in with screws only (no locator pins) the knife will go together a little differently each time. Try loosening the spacer screws, tweaking the alignment slightly, then tightening the screws again.

Thanks! Hollow ground on a 3" wheel, using just the edge of the wheel. I now have a bunch of belts that are worn out on the edge, but fresh in the middle. :)

Here's a pic of the serpentine dagger I finished recently. Blade is CPM154, mirror polished. Handle is dyed box elder burl, fluted and with sterling silver twisted wire wrap. Guard and pommel are nickel silver. This was my first fluted and wire wrapped handle.

Loving the "twist" filework in the blade back!

Wow! :)

I just sent in my 85 bucks for a 4" dropped hunter. Hopefully, I'll receive my knife soon . . .

Really like the design on the second one (not that there's anything wrong with the first one . . . :) )

I suspect 416 would be easier to machine, which is probably why it's used by pivot manufacturers. As far as performance, I doubt there would be much, if any, difference. Remember, traditional slip joint folders were made for many years with brass or nickel silver pivot pins, and you don't see...

I just double checked, and the Ti pivot sets are indeed 416 stainless for the pivot barrel; only the screws are titanium.

Unless I'm very much mistaken (always a possibility) only the screws are titanium on the ti pivots from ti connector - the pivot barrel itself is steel. Ti galls with steel, and so wouldn't make a good pivot material.

Hollow grinding on a 3" contact wheel.

It wasn't easy.:) I ground on the edges of the wheel, since you can't get the face into the curves. I now have several grinding belts that are worn out on the edges but fresh in the center. It's hard to feel the wheel drop into the hollow using only the edge. Also, you have to move the blade...